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Bleeding Brakes Issues

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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #1  
goldie9309's Avatar
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From: WESTERN NEW YORK
Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L I6
Default Bleeding Brakes Issues

Hello everyone names Alex and I am the proud owner of a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport and I have been having issues with bleeding the brakes the past 3 days. It all started out with doing bearings, upper and lower ball joints, and having to replace the calipers on both sides in the process. Normally you could just switch a caliper out quick, bleed it a little bit, and done. Easy right? Not so much... For some reason every time I've bled them I get pressure in the pedal and the breaks appear to work, spin the tire hit the brake tire stops, and have pressure. As soon as I turn the jeep on the pressure goes away and the pedal sinks straight to the floor. I've done this over and over and have gone through a solid 3 bottles of fluid and even tried bleeding with the jeep on with no pressure at all as the end result. At first we did the traditional hold the petal let it bleed and tighten bleeder and release pedal. Tried gravity bleeding and I know for a fact the lines have had fluid in them with no bubbles coming out. We replaced the master cylinder with no avail thinking it may have been that. I'm sort of at a loss here. I've kept the master cylinder topped off during all the processes, I have checked for leaks at each wheel and have found nothing out of the ordinary. Does anyone have any suggestions from personal experience or knowledge that could help me out here? I just want to get her back on the road already! Hopefully its just something minor I'm missing here or some kind of part that I'm just not thinking to replace or check out. Please help a fellow jeeper out!
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:47 AM
  #2  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
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"hold the petal let it bleed"

What order are you bleeding them in?
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 11:26 AM
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there is still air in the system-I would bleed the Master Cylinder, next.
if you have a air compressor, get a cheap Harbor Freight air brake bleeder kit. don't forget to use the 20% off coupon.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 11:42 AM
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From: Riviera, Texas
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You need to bench bleed the master before installing the you nee to bleed at all 4 wheels starting with the rear passenger, rear drivers side, front passenger then the front drivers side.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RTorrez1
You need to bench bleed the master before installing the you nee to bleed at all 4 wheels starting with the rear passenger, rear drivers side, front passenger then the front drivers side.
Ok I will give that a try and will keep you posted on progress. Thank you for the advice.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:33 PM
  #6  
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From: Riviera, Texas
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Originally Posted by goldie9309
Ok I will give that a try and will keep you posted on progress. Thank you for the advice.
Not a problem. Hope it works for you.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 03:12 PM
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Did you install the new calipers on the correct sides, with the bleeders to the top? And I second the need to bench bleed the new master.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:18 PM
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From: Spring Branch, Tx.
Year: 96
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Originally Posted by puredrive
there is still air in the system-I would bleed the Master Cylinder, next.
if you have a air compressor, get a cheap Harbor Freight air brake bleeder kit. don't forget to use the 20% off coupon.
I have the HF vacuum bleeder and all it did was suck air through the bleeder, however YMMV. Somewhere I read to put grease around the bleeder which worked on a couple of em but the fronts started sucking the grease in to the caliper and into the clear tube! They are cheap and the reservoir fill bottle that sits on the fill hole is almost worth it since you won't have to constantly watch the fluid level. As others have said definitely check that the calipers are on the correct side, meaning the bleeder is above where the brake line enters the caliper.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:33 PM
  #9  
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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Originally Posted by 96TEXjAS
I have the HF vacuum bleeder and all it did was suck air through the bleeder, however YMMV. Somewhere I read to put grease around the bleeder which worked on a couple of em but the fronts started sucking the grease in to the caliper and into the clear tube! They are cheap and the reservoir fill bottle that sits on the fill hole is almost worth it since you won't have to constantly watch the fluid level. As others have said definitely check that the calipers are on the correct side, meaning the bleeder is above where the brake line enters the caliper.
If you got any grease in the brake fluid you may have a compleat failure of all the rubber in the system. You never want to use any type of petroleum product around the brake hydraulic system.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Tobey
Did you install the new calipers on the correct sides, with the bleeders to the top? And I second the need to bench bleed the new master.
Yeah my buddies an idiot and put the calipers on the wrong sides. Thanks for the tip I checked it out it and it was wrong. I fixed it, bled em, and would ya look at that I have brakes. 3 days, many hours of searching and frustration later I learned something. Do not let your friends work on your vehicle! Their "help" will cost you if they don't know what they're doing. It did me in for a master cylinder and 5 bottles of brake fluid
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