Don't the dizzy wires need repairing or the sync sensor replaced?
Has that been done yet?

Those plugs are worn out. Just sayin'.

Factory interval for plugs, wires, cap and rotor are every 30,000 miles. Your odometer is over 3 times that. Perhaps Mr Green Jeans wasn't good at maintenance?

 

no.. it has not.. we were debating cost of a new to me (reman rock auto dizzy) vs sensor vs new plug...

plugs and wires will be done... angels gifted me with new wires... purchases will have to wait until next week..

clearly mr green jeans didn't take care of anything. I'm wondering if the odometer may have been rolled back.. plus I know she sat for a very long time.. or both or whatever..

hubby redid the front axle except 4x4 actuator, new alt, new battery, suspension front and back idk what all else... sadly hubby is not able to answer that fully yet.. but he is doing very well

 

Until a decision is made as to the avenue to be taken to repair the dizzy, and then carrying out that repair, there's nothing else to do.

 

I've been away today working on my mother's house. I believe the "sensor" J33... is talking about is the fuel pump ballast resistor. The symptom he described supports that, and you've already provided a picture of it (Post #29) - and it is already plugged in. Just looking at the electrodes (the center post) of the spark plug you can see that the edges are quite rounded. They are sharply square when new. It's hard to tell from a picture, but the gaps look a little large as well.
That's great that you got the compression test done. Very ambitious! #3 is a little low, but there is enough compression to fire - and we now know that your compression isn't bubbling into the radiator or squeezing out between the block and the head.
The pressure in the fuel rail is essentially the same running as it is with the key turned before you start it. If you are afraid of it leaking or spraying, you would see that as soon as you turn the key. After it's running, if you want to know what the fuel pressure is, you will have to locate a fuel pressure gage with a schader valve fitting.
In the meantime, at least check the upper intake fasteners for tightness. They are easy to get to at the head side of each intake runner. The lower ones are a little more difficult to get to. If you find any loose upper ones, then you will need to go for the lower ones as well.

 

it was more difficult finding all the tools to remove the plugs and to actually remove the plugs than it was to do the compression test lol

i just ordered cheap bosch Automotive (6717) OE Fine Wire Platinum Spark Plug from amazon. says they don't need to be gapped but I will look for his gapper anyway. it was 3 bucks cheaper to order 4 than to order the 4 pack.. and I have prime so they will be here friday unless amazon gets dumb .. and I cross referenced with oriellys, napa and summit to make sure they would fit as ngk is what those are.. I took more pics of them if you want to see more.. i turned them like 3 times to get about all the way around.

I will probably just get a cheapy fuel pressure tester next week.. I need to check my f250 too.. everything else has a carb..

I will look for torque specs unless someone wants to shoot them at me real quick... He has several and I might find one I already know how to use lol

before all this, she didn't want to go when in 4th gear and that day she struggled all day.. with the heavy gas smell at first my research pointed at the regulator.. she was getting 20mpg. maybe all this will fix that, too. we will see.. once I get all this together.

 

Torque specs for what?

 

everything.. intake manifold bolts, the spark plugs. if a distributor has them, or the cap or both..

 

It's about impossible to torque the intake bolts and the factory setting was too low anyway. Just make sure they're snug. Good and snug.

I have never torqued spark plugs in a cast iron head in over 55 years of wrenching.

 

ok. I just don't want to be responsible for messing it up again by either not doing enough or doing it too much.

 

Don't worry about it.

 

Having that unplugged will cause it to die when it starts. Bought mine super cheap cause dude had it sitting for awhile without knowing why it couldn't stay on.

 

Replying in response to onestrongwriter-

 

thanks..
I know there are a lot of posts but the current concern is:

 

Also: just so you know.. it doesn't start and die... it just doesnt start after quitting altogether while I was doing about 80 on the freeway.. idk... Im seriously considering gauges instead of idiot lights.. maybe she got hot idk maybe hubby left a bottle of something in the engine compartment.. its a thing he does sometimes.. but it also knocked all my wires off the top of the distributor .. or someone messed with it, so she is locked all the time now. There is a jeep guy down the street lol newer ones but hey .. and the only codes it throws.. wait let me go check... still just 12 and 54..obd1 key trick

 

Fix the dizzy!!!!!