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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I will look on the back of the engine.. all my fluids are still full except the ps because that has always leaked
Originally Posted by pineapple_tree
Save the images to your phone to get a better quality photo. I don’t know why they’re so blurry
it only took 3 turns of the key I am assuming this is the wire for the middle of the distributor and whatever else that is. when I lightly tug it, it doesn't go anywhere. the wire on my fingers is the wire coming from the bottom of the distributor... frayed... no end... s & gs.. the inside of my air filter housing is wet with something.. hasn't ran in 2 months so.. is that bad blow by? and could it be related to the initial issue of dying on the expressway .. according to pineapple tree... the right side of the engine was soaking wet but has dried since then. My original right/left is the opposite of that.... I zoomed this in to make it easier to see.. that is spark plug wire 1. I am kind of wondering why this is like this. the thing supposedly only had 094k on the odometer, yes with the 0.. the guy I bought it from did have a wrangler... Im thinking now the a/c stuff was removed...
There is a photo of a large connector being held in front of the throttle body. I don't think that one has been dispositioned yet. In the photo of the black wires coming out of the distributor, it looks like the connector is missing. Is that the case? Maybe a better picture of the end of that.
Top dead center is an alignment point in the rotation of the engine. Right now there is no indication that you need a new distributor, although if the connector is missing from the black wires coming out of it, it is quite difficult to replace the sync sensor.
It is more likely that you are quite close to having your Jeep running again soon, understanding the actual cause of the problem that night has not been determined and may lead to additional problems if this wasn't just sabotage.
You sent the photo of the black wires coming out of the distributor while I was typing my last post. To the Forum: Is the sync sensor a necessity for the engine to run? It is not for a RENIX era model.
There is a photo of a large connector being held in front of the throttle body. I don't think that one has been dispositioned yet. In the photo of the black wires coming out of the distributor, it looks like the connector is missing. Is that the case? Maybe a better picture of the end of that.
Top dead center is an alignment point in the rotation of the engine. Right now there is no indication that you need a new distributor, although if the connector is missing from the black wires coming out of it, it is quite difficult to replace the sync sensor.
It is more likely that you are quite close to having your Jeep running again soon, understanding the actual cause of the problem that night has not been determined and may lead to additional problems if this wasn't just sabotage.
My first thought initially was the fuel pressure regulator sprung a hella leak.. yes the connector is missing off the wire to the distributor. I will soon go out and get better pics of that. And I will take a series of photos of the as of yet unkown connector, including whatever else that part of the harness may be attached to. there is really nothing within reach of it that I can see...
Code 12 indicates that the battery had been removed within the last 50 start-ups. Code 54, of all things, indicates that the computer is not getting a sync sensor signal.
Take Lawsoncl's diagram and plug the wires back into the top of the distributor cap, including #1 - Wet the outside of the red insulator with a little water and shove it as far into the boot as it will go. You may or may not get some degree of spark through it. But even on three cylinders, you will know if it will start.
I'd like to know what the other connector (in front of the throttle body) is, but other than that. I would try to start it.
Code 12 indicates that the battery had been removed within the last 50 start-ups. Code 54, of all things, indicates that the computer is not getting a sync sensor signal.
Take Lawsoncl's diagram and plug the wires back into the top of the distributor cap, including #1 - Wet the outside of the red insulator with a little water and shove it as far into the boot as it will go. You may or may not get some degree of spark through it. But even on three cylinders, you will know if it will start.
I'd like to know what the other connector (in front of the throttle body) is, but other than that. I would try to start it.
the middle one is not clicking on like the rest. #1 has no actual wire sticking out but I shoved it in as much as I could. please advise about the middle one.
still crank no start. I decided for s n g to add about a gallon of gas since I'm a little pointed downhill right now.. gauge moved up more towards the f, almost touching it now lol, never had a lick of trouble out of the gauge.. still only throwing 12 and 54..
this is the ground that goes with the other pic this is the rear by the valve cover on the driver side. the thing with the boot looking part would be the coolant sensor we are referring to? the round one behind it looks to be a grown wire as it goes to the firewall with a wide strap?? this red connector? I don't believe it reaches that far.
This is where the middle wire on the distributor goes to
better pic of the wire on the bottom of the distributor a better pic of the red and black connector to show where it is attached so it cannot go far. I cleaned the area up a little for better viewing. the right is the flat ground to firewall top view of the newly sort of cleaned up area merely speculation of the as of yet undetermined connector.. is there supposed to be something in that empty hole? As a side note, the clamp around the air cleaner bit on the throttle body was pretty loose, I tightened it up a tad injectors 3 and 4 injectors 1 and 2
Everything else looks to be as it was from the factory. The air filter housing looks fairly normal. The correct relays are present. Does that ground strap at the firewall make it to the bolt on the back of the engine? I don't see it in the middle between the two pictures. I would like a good head-on shot of the mystery plug, right at its face. You said the AC has been removed. Is the second fan (driver's side) still there?
Everything else looks to be as it was from the factory. The air filter housing looks fairly normal. The correct relays are present. Does that ground strap at the firewall make it to the bolt on the back of the engine? I don't see it in the middle between the two pictures. I would like a good head-on shot of the mystery plug, right at its face. You said the AC has been removed. Is the second fan (driver's side) still there?
the ground strap goes all the way. I do not see any second fan, just the main one to the water pump.
Fuel pump ballast resistor. It gets bypassed when starting and at wide open throttle. If that's broken, the usual symptom is that it'll start and then die shortly thereafter.
