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Best Cooling System Components for 95 XJ Straight 6

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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 04:16 PM
  #31  
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
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Get your tape measure out and buy bulk 5/8" and 3/4" heater hose at any auto parts store and eliminate the HCV. We installed the Spectra Premium 1193 rad from AutoZone 3 years back, iirc. Perfect fit, lifetime warranty, no issues.....but if there is an issue, it can be swapped quickly at the store and no jacking with mail order. New heater hoses WITHOUT the HCV will look something like this after u r done. Be sure to plug off the vacuum line that attached to the old HCV.
Attached Thumbnails Best Cooling System Components for 95 XJ Straight 6-032.jpg  
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 04:20 PM
  #32  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
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Originally Posted by DirtWaterAltitude
That is a good idea. From the pictures of the part: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It looks like it has one. But nothing ever seems to go as planned so I might be using the old one. Thanks for the tip!
New hoses will not come with an anti-collapse spring and auto stores do not sell them.
The HCV 'heater control valve' is known to become brittle and break easily.
It is a 4-way valve on the heater hoses. It can be removed if broken and the heater lines run direct, but then hot coolant will always run through the heater core.

One thing you are missing from your list is the 'water pump inlet tube'. Your old one is likely rusted. It is the metal tube that extends up from the pump and connects to the heater hose. It can be eliminated altogether by using a brass fitting. There are write-ups on this that a search may turn up.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 04:26 PM
  #33  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
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Originally Posted by djb383
Get your tape measure out and buy bulk 5/8" and 3/4" heater hose at any auto parts store and eliminate the HCV. We installed the Spectra Premium 1193 rad from AutoZone 3 years back, iirc. Perfect fit, lifetime warranty, no issues.....but if there is an issue, it can be swapped quickly at the store and no jacking with mail order. New heater hoses WITHOUT the HCV will look something like this after u r done. Be sure to plug off the vacuum line that attached to the old HCV.
djb383, with the HCV removed and hot fluid always flowing through the heater core, does the AC still work 100%. Being in Texas I imagine you need it. I am curious as to the full function of the valve and its benefits, drawbacks.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 04:39 PM
  #34  
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From: Salt Lake City, UT
Year: 1995
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Thanks for catching that. I will buy a water pump inlet tube as well.

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
New hoses will not come with an anti-collapse spring and auto stores do not sell them.
The HCV 'heater control valve' is known to become brittle and break easily.
It is a 4-way valve on the heater hoses. It can be removed if broken and the heater lines run direct, but then hot coolant will always run through the heater core.

One thing you are missing from your list is the 'water pump inlet tube'. Your old one is likely rusted. It is the metal tube that extends up from the pump and connects to the heater hose. It can be eliminated altogether by using a brass fitting. There are write-ups on this that a search may turn up.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 04:41 PM
  #35  
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Thanks for the picture! That looks like something I can easily do. I will research it some more. I bought that same radiator from AutoZone. Looks like a really good radiator, especially from reading the reviews of it.

Originally Posted by djb383
Get your tape measure out and buy bulk 5/8" and 3/4" heater hose at any auto parts store and eliminate the HCV. We installed the Spectra Premium 1193 rad from AutoZone 3 years back, iirc. Perfect fit, lifetime warranty, no issues.....but if there is an issue, it can be swapped quickly at the store and no jacking with mail order. New heater hoses WITHOUT the HCV will look something like this after u r done. Be sure to plug off the vacuum line that attached to the old HCV.

Last edited by DirtWaterAltitude; Jun 4, 2014 at 07:35 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 05:12 PM
  #36  
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The only issue I have had with those economy radiators is the drain valve. It popped out and all coolant was lost. I used epoxy putty in the hole and it lasted another 2 years.
Also, the filler neck contacts the airbox, signature of aftermarket radiators in the XJ.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 05:44 PM
  #37  
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That doesn't sound like fun. I will keep an eye on it for sure.

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
The only issue I have had with those economy radiators is the drain valve. It popped out and all coolant was lost. I used epoxy putty in the hole and it lasted another 2 years.
Also, the filler neck contacts the airbox, signature of aftermarket radiators in the XJ.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 06:47 PM
  #38  
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
djb383, with the HCV removed and hot fluid always flowing through the heater core, does the AC still work 100%. Being in Texas I imagine you need it. I am curious as to the full function of the valve and its benefits, drawbacks.
Originally Posted by SteveMongr
The only issue I have had with those economy radiators is the drain valve. It popped out and all coolant was lost. I used epoxy putty in the hole and it lasted another 2 years.
Also, the filler neck contacts the airbox, signature of aftermarket radiators in the XJ.
Our A/C puts out mid 30s on max at the center vent.....Chrysler eliminated the HCV on '97 and up XJs.

Never use the rad drain valve..... disconnect the bottom rad hose from the water pump. Removing the plastic air filter box 1st makes getting the bottom hose off the water pump a piece of cake.

The rad filler neck does not contact our air filter box.

Last edited by djb383; Jun 4, 2014 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 07:49 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by djb383
Our A/C puts out mid 30s on max at the center vent.....Chrysler eliminated the HCV on '97 and up XJs.

Never use the rad drain valve..... disconnect the bottom rad hose from the water pump. Removing the plastic air filter box 1st makes getting the bottom hose off the water pump a piece of cake.

The rad filler neck does not contact our air filter box.
That is also a good tip to know . . . thanks!

That is good your A/C works. Mine was not blowing cold air for a while. I recharged it with a kit and it seems to be holding well. Instead of driving home from Moab (90 deg outside) with the A/C on, I had to turn my heater on due to overheating. . . Hopefully the next time I go out my cooling system will be installed and working properly so I get to use it.
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Old Jun 4, 2014 | 09:22 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
djb383, with the HCV removed and hot fluid always flowing through the heater core, does the AC still work 100%. Being in Texas I imagine you need it. I am curious as to the full function of the valve and its benefits, drawbacks.
AZJeff (this forum? another one?) lives in Phoenix, and says it works just fine this way. He's run it for a number of years.

I was skeptical too, but if it works in Phoenix, it's probably okay in Texas!
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