Best control arm bushings
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have a 2000 jeep cherokee and the control arm bushings have seen better days. Im looking to replace all of them. Ive read to stay away from the polyurethane ones. Whats the best brand to get? and where is a good place to purchase them? i looked on advance auto and autozone but they dont really have much listed. Thanks in advance
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
www.rockauto.com will have complete Moog arms for around 45 bucks apiece. Doing only the bushings in stock arms is more trouble than it's worth, do the whole arm.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I have a 2000 jeep cherokee and the control arm bushings have seen better days. Im looking to replace all of them. Ive read to stay away from the polyurethane ones. Whats the best brand to get? and where is a good place to purchase them? i looked on advance auto and autozone but they dont really have much listed. Thanks in advance 
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
www.rockauto.com will have complete Moog arms for around 45 bucks apiece. Doing only the bushings in stock arms is more trouble than it's worth, do the whole arm.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
www.rockauto.com will have complete Moog arms for around 45 bucks apiece. Doing only the bushings in stock arms is more trouble than it's worth, do the whole arm.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No, that's good advice if you want less vibes, smoother on-road ride, better off-road performance.
Another reason to stick with OEM Rubber style.....
paper thin Jeep brackets don't hold too well to the stiffeness of poly bushings.

Not my pic, but see a lot of these in the shop every year. More often than not....poly bushings.
If you don't wheel on the rocks you won't to worry about it as much.
Another reason to stick with OEM Rubber style.....
paper thin Jeep brackets don't hold too well to the stiffeness of poly bushings.

Not my pic, but see a lot of these in the shop every year. More often than not....poly bushings.
If you don't wheel on the rocks you won't to worry about it as much.
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Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
what do you guys think of these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Control-Ar...df32e9&vxp=mtr
and frank, do you sell just the bushings?
and frank, do you sell just the bushings?
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 1
From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
what do you guys think of these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Control-Ar...df32e9&vxp=mtr
think they are any good?
edit: fixed link!
think they are any good?
edit: fixed link!
Last edited by Power73; Jan 20, 2013 at 10:50 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 12,367
Likes: 23
From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
what do you guys think of these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Control-Ar...df32e9&vxp=mtr
and frank, do you sell just the bushings?
and frank, do you sell just the bushings?
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 38
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I just installed the poly bushings on my '87. It's only been a couple days, but so far, I love them! I don't wheel though, it's just a street beater, no lift. Now, I've gone through the whole front end replacing parts, ball joints, springs, shocks, tie-rod ends, sway bar bushings, etc....and the control arm bushings are probably the most noticeable improvement yet. After installed and a much needed alignment, wish I would have done it years ago!
Had I had the ability to replace with OE rubber bushings, I might have, but the poly ones seemed easier because 1) it was a little cheaper - I got them for like $60 and 2) I couldn't find a machine shop in town that was open on the weekends to press out the old sleeves, since that was the only time I could tackle this job.
The installation wasn't too bad, but it was time consuming. An easy way to get the bushings out of the sleeves is by drilling or melting.
One time-saving tip I found by accident might help others who go this route - when removing the old bushing from the sleeves (since you re-use them) take a drill bit and drill down on one side of the bushing and sleeve, and if you're lucky, the bit will grab on the rubber and work it's way around the bushing sleeve. If you keep it going and don't stop it, you will see that the drill bit will actually work out the old bushing as it goes in a circular motion around the sleeve. I think I used like a 3/16" bit, or bigger. The other advantage of this method is that it also cleans up the inside of the bushing sleeve somewhat, as opposed to melting them out, which I had to do on the axle-mounted bushings.
There are other write-ups on this as well, I kind of used a mish-mash of everyone's techniques I found.
Just my opinion on them, and a little advice, maybe for you, or someone else who stumbles on this post....
Had I had the ability to replace with OE rubber bushings, I might have, but the poly ones seemed easier because 1) it was a little cheaper - I got them for like $60 and 2) I couldn't find a machine shop in town that was open on the weekends to press out the old sleeves, since that was the only time I could tackle this job.
The installation wasn't too bad, but it was time consuming. An easy way to get the bushings out of the sleeves is by drilling or melting.
One time-saving tip I found by accident might help others who go this route - when removing the old bushing from the sleeves (since you re-use them) take a drill bit and drill down on one side of the bushing and sleeve, and if you're lucky, the bit will grab on the rubber and work it's way around the bushing sleeve. If you keep it going and don't stop it, you will see that the drill bit will actually work out the old bushing as it goes in a circular motion around the sleeve. I think I used like a 3/16" bit, or bigger. The other advantage of this method is that it also cleans up the inside of the bushing sleeve somewhat, as opposed to melting them out, which I had to do on the axle-mounted bushings.
There are other write-ups on this as well, I kind of used a mish-mash of everyone's techniques I found.
Just my opinion on them, and a little advice, maybe for you, or someone else who stumbles on this post....
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