Originally Posted by Hellnback

@Bro Tech,Do we need to unplug the compressor wires to disable the A/C system? I thought that by just not switching the A/c to on will do the trick.
Just a clarification Bro.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Lyon

Being the type of person I am, I am always trying to help people even if they don't ask for it. I try to help people eliminate problems before they arrise. I've spend many years doing maintenance so it just comes naturally.
It's not a point of "blowing" money to get the AC working, it's a point to spend the money on a part instead of a tow truck.
People tend to ask questions or state what their problem is in someone elses thread and we all try to help each other out. If you don't want to hear ideas on your problems, then don't contribute. Have a nice day.

Originally Posted by Lyon

Serpentine belt problems usually result from one of three causes: a defective belt tensioner (or in our case improper tension); misalignment of a pulley; or, defective bearings in the tensioner, idler, or one of accessories driven by the belt (including the water pump).

Belt noise can be hard to isolate, as the sound may seem to be coming from an accessory drive, such as the alternator or air conditioning compressor. A noise that occurs only when the vehicle accelerates is likely to be a slipping belt, as is a noise that occurs only when the car is started cold. Chirping is caused when a pulley is misaligned, so that the belt ridges initially contact the sides of the sides of the grooves and then slide downward along the groove's sides as they seat in the pulley.

Do not apply "belt dressing" to a serpentine belt in an attempt to quiet a belt or cure slipping. Belt dressing is a gooey, tar-like substance designed to cure V belt slipping by making the belt sticky. At best, it is a temporary fix, even on a V belt. But, when applied to a serpentine belt, the dressing will be spread into the pulley grooves. Once there, it will attract and hold dirt and grit which is a definite if you go offroading. The dirt will start the belt slipping again and all of the dirt and belt dressing will have to be cleaned out of the pulley grooves before a new belt is installed.

Belt noises can be diagnosed with a spray bottle of water. With the engine running and the sound audible, lightly mist the grooved side of the belt with water. If the noise disappears or lessens, but then shortly returns, the problem is probably a misaligned pulley. If the noise immediately increases after the belt is misted, the belt is slipping.

Another trick is reversing the belt: take it off and put it back on so that it travels in what would have been its backward direction as originally installed. If the noise goes away or gets much softer, the problem is a misaligned pulley. This diagnostic works because flipping the belt changes the direction of the misalignment from the belt's perspective. If reversing the belt does not temporarily eliminate the noise, the problem is something other than misaligned pulleys.

Next, examine the belt itself. Glazing at the edges of a serpentine belt, or on its ridges or in the grooves, results from the belt slipping. It indicates that friction between the belt and the accessory drive pulley(s) created by slipping has overheated the belt.

Fraying at the edge of a belt indicates pulley misalignment. The edge frays because it is scraping on the top edge of an accessory drive pulley side as the belt feeds into it.

Fluid contamination attacks the rubber surface of the belt. All of the automotive fluids that can leak onto a belt--oil, power steering fluid, coolant--are petroleum based and will attack rubber. Once on the belt, any of these fluids will be distributed over the pulley groove surfaces, making them slippery and attracting dirt.