I just redid a '94,so ynot?
Make sure u bring the head to a machine shop to check,deck & do the valves.

 

I am without a doubt. Who would you recommend buying a gasket kit from? Summit? As far as brand, Felpro? and avoid any cork. Anything else?

 

Go to Rockauto.com, search for your vehicle, go to Engine -> Cylinder Head Gasket/Sets. They usually have cheaper prices than anyone else.

I would definitely go Fel-Pro

 

Thanks. I'm making my order; would new rocker arms and push rods make any difference? Or would cleaning the old ones up be just the same? In the end I'm selling the vehicle.

 

Is there a reverse bolt sequence when removing the head? I'm asking this because I'm reusing the same head after rebuild and don't want to chance cracking it.

 

Nah.

 

Great. Got all my parts. Now if I can just get the rain gods to bless me for about 10 days I'll be set.

 

Finally getting my head back on Monday. Since it's been a few weeks since disassembly my push-rods seem a bit tacky. Should I clean them up, if so just a rag and carb cleaner? Or just leave them be. They're nice and straight btw so easily reusable. Also, I forgot to test my rockers when they were on, how can I be sure that they're okay now, uninstalled?

 

When installing my rockers, do I have to adjust each set at TDC?

 

Top dead centre refers to where the # 1 piston is in the the cylinder, (at the very top)

 

Just put it all together and than cycle it through each piston to make sure everything is ok, clean them up for sure

 

Thanks for all the help provided here. The procedure was successful, but the cure to my multiple misfire codes remains unknown. They came back 47 miles after completion.

 

I'll add my observations, doing mine this weekend (the usual 2000 cracked 0331 head). At this point I have the new Clearwater head on, manifolds, rockers, and valve cover back on (all the PITA stuff), sipping a well deserved Scotch, tomorrow I'll finish reinstalling the accessories.

• I have no idea how anybody could get the manifolds off with any combination of sockets and extensions, with or without universals. Fortunately I was able to reach even the bottom bolts with a box wrench, and I was able to break them loose with that wrench.
• Similarly, there is no way I could get a torque wrench on any but a couple of the upper manifold bolts when reinstalling; I had to guesstimate the torque.
• The new head didn't have the dowels to locate the intake manifold. I was able to get them out of the old head with vise grips, it bunged them up a bit but I chucked them up in my mill and turned them back down to size, then tapped them into the new head. You could do the same with a drill press and a file.
• I wanted to unbolt the exhaust pipes from the manifold and put it together on the bench, but there was no way. The nut plates just spun, and the hex part of the nut plate is no known wrench size... 15mm too big, 14mm too small, 9/16 barely too small. So I just left them in place and bolted the manifolds back on after putting the head on.
• I temporarily installed the #1 and #6 rocker bridges to have something to attach the rope to to lift the heads out and back in with a pipe stuck through and the assistance of my son in law.
• I didn't remove the hood and see no reason why I would have needed to.
• I didn't have to remove the A/C bracket, just the two bolts that go into the head.
• Removing the power steering pump is a lot easier if you pull the fan in front of it first.
• Be careful putting the valve cover back on... Even though I was careful, I broke one of the bolts (I couldn't find my small torque wrench, I think it's in my hangar at the airport). Fortunately it was one of the front bolts and miracle of miracles, I was able to drill it and use an EZ-out to get it out. It's 1/4-20, not metric.
• The pdf factory manual from Pacific Coast Manuals was a godsend... when the Haynes manual covers 1983-2002, it's just not gonna have the required detail.
• The "universal" fuel line quick disconnect tool I have was too big (it's never worked yet), but I was able to improvise with a split piece of steel tubing.
• Why the hell does Chrysler use a different locking mechanism for every electrical plug? Some you push, some you pull, some have a sliding deal to disconnect.
• Be careful with the locking tabs on the fuel injector electrical plugs. I broke the first two before I got the hang of it, I guess I'll zip tie them back on.

 

I recently replaced the head on my '99 with a Promaxx head, and I found unbolting the crossmember to lower the trans mount opens up room enough to even fit the new #14 bolt stud and all and easily fit the torque wrench with the deep socket 12 point with no problems. I did have that bolt taped and in the hole in the head as I put the new head on the block but forgot to dip the treads in w30 oil first, so, dropped the crossmember, and bolt came out and made it easy to torque after.

 

Yeah, I know it is an old thread...but thanks for taking time to do it!