Battery or Altenator?
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
PCM has nothing to do with turn signals.
Disassemble every electrical connector you can find. If it is a large enough mating surface, sand or use another abrasive material until shiny. This will include all body grounds and main power connections and even relay and fuse pins. Then clean off all remaining residues and bits with electrical (or 'electronic') contact cleaner. When dry, reassemble with a conductive grease like Gardner Bender OX-GARD or Sanchem NO-OX-ID Special A. These products are used in the power, radio, and telecom industries to prevent corrosion on critical and mixed-metal joints (such as aluminum to copper splices) and promote a good connection. Do the same for electrical connectors. Obviously you can't sand them all, I've had very good luck with a 1" brass wire brush. Also use the electrical grease on the connector pins. Dielectric grease should be applied around the edges of plastic connectors like caulking to keep water out. Don't use it on the actual pins.
I've used the above to restore function to many things including returning corroded connectors back from the dead. I'm glad your alternator and battery weren't replaced for naught but you really need to ensure your wires and connections are SOLID before throwing random parts at the problem.
Disassemble every electrical connector you can find. If it is a large enough mating surface, sand or use another abrasive material until shiny. This will include all body grounds and main power connections and even relay and fuse pins. Then clean off all remaining residues and bits with electrical (or 'electronic') contact cleaner. When dry, reassemble with a conductive grease like Gardner Bender OX-GARD or Sanchem NO-OX-ID Special A. These products are used in the power, radio, and telecom industries to prevent corrosion on critical and mixed-metal joints (such as aluminum to copper splices) and promote a good connection. Do the same for electrical connectors. Obviously you can't sand them all, I've had very good luck with a 1" brass wire brush. Also use the electrical grease on the connector pins. Dielectric grease should be applied around the edges of plastic connectors like caulking to keep water out. Don't use it on the actual pins.
I've used the above to restore function to many things including returning corroded connectors back from the dead. I'm glad your alternator and battery weren't replaced for naught but you really need to ensure your wires and connections are SOLID before throwing random parts at the problem.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Suggest using a real voltmeter...not just the dashboard indicator. On my JEEP the dashboard indicator turns off after 20-30 seconds of the car not running...I think most auto parts stores will let you borrow a meter to make measurements in their parking lot.
And...as many have already mentioned...all bets are off...and NOTHING will work if the connections to the battery and the chassis...or the cabling...are not good.
Battery and alternator are electrically connected...so they will always read the same voltage. Battery should read 12.5-12.8 volts with the engine not running. When the engine IS running, the alternator should increase the voltage up to 14-15 volts. (This allows the alternator to re-charge the battery while your vehicle is running.) A different voltage while the engine is running would indicate bad alternator. A LOWER voltage than 12.5 volts on the battery when the car is not running would indicate a bad battery or a discharged battery. (But...a DISCHARGED battery might not be a BAD battery...big difference.) Since your battery is basically brand new...I'd guess that the battery is good...still might be discharged...but will not be a bad battery.
And...as many have already mentioned...all bets are off...and NOTHING will work if the connections to the battery and the chassis...or the cabling...are not good.
Battery and alternator are electrically connected...so they will always read the same voltage. Battery should read 12.5-12.8 volts with the engine not running. When the engine IS running, the alternator should increase the voltage up to 14-15 volts. (This allows the alternator to re-charge the battery while your vehicle is running.) A different voltage while the engine is running would indicate bad alternator. A LOWER voltage than 12.5 volts on the battery when the car is not running would indicate a bad battery or a discharged battery. (But...a DISCHARGED battery might not be a BAD battery...big difference.) Since your battery is basically brand new...I'd guess that the battery is good...still might be discharged...but will not be a bad battery.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
PCM has nothing to do with turn signals.
Disassemble every electrical connector you can find. If it is a large enough mating surface, sand or use another abrasive material until shiny. This will include all body grounds and main power connections and even relay and fuse pins. Then clean off all remaining residues and bits with electrical (or 'electronic') contact cleaner. When dry, reassemble with a conductive grease like Gardner Bender OX-GARD or Sanchem NO-OX-ID Special A. These products are used in the power, radio, and telecom industries to prevent corrosion on critical and mixed-metal joints (such as aluminum to copper splices) and promote a good connection. Do the same for electrical connectors. Obviously you can't sand them all, I've had very good luck with a 1" brass wire brush. Also use the electrical grease on the connector pins. Dielectric grease should be applied around the edges of plastic connectors like caulking to keep water out. Don't use it on the actual pins.
I've used the above to restore function to many things including returning corroded connectors back from the dead. I'm glad your alternator and battery weren't replaced for naught but you really need to ensure your wires and connections are SOLID before throwing random parts at the problem.
Disassemble every electrical connector you can find. If it is a large enough mating surface, sand or use another abrasive material until shiny. This will include all body grounds and main power connections and even relay and fuse pins. Then clean off all remaining residues and bits with electrical (or 'electronic') contact cleaner. When dry, reassemble with a conductive grease like Gardner Bender OX-GARD or Sanchem NO-OX-ID Special A. These products are used in the power, radio, and telecom industries to prevent corrosion on critical and mixed-metal joints (such as aluminum to copper splices) and promote a good connection. Do the same for electrical connectors. Obviously you can't sand them all, I've had very good luck with a 1" brass wire brush. Also use the electrical grease on the connector pins. Dielectric grease should be applied around the edges of plastic connectors like caulking to keep water out. Don't use it on the actual pins.
I've used the above to restore function to many things including returning corroded connectors back from the dead. I'm glad your alternator and battery weren't replaced for naught but you really need to ensure your wires and connections are SOLID before throwing random parts at the problem.
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