ball joint, wheel bearing ?'s

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Mar 31, 2010 | 01:52 PM
  #46  
Quote: Bringing this back from the dead, but has anyone used the brand FEQ for wheel hubs? On sale they are half of Timken, but I don't want to buy them if they're ****- thanks guys
Find out where they are made. You get what you pay for with chinese hubs.
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Mar 31, 2010 | 02:03 PM
  #47  
Yeah that's what I figured, but off sale they seem pricey (I know price doesn't indicate quality)- jc if anyone has used them before I pulled the trigger- Anyone use Dorman?
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Apr 6, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #48  
front hub tear down
How do I get the hub off. I got the center nut off. Do I have to take off the 3 13mm 12 point bolts off to pull the hub completly off. Or do I bang on the hub untill it falls off?
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Apr 6, 2010 | 01:47 PM
  #49  
Quote: How do I get the hub off. I got the center nut off. Do I have to take off the 3 13mm 12 point bolts off to pull the hub completly off. Or do I bang on the hub untill it falls off?
Put the three 12point bolts back in and screw in em about half way. Turn the knuckle and strike the 12 point bolts with a hammer till it pushes the hub out. DON'T hit the hub itself cuz it will start to split apart.


Or...

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unit...tbearing-1.htm
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Jul 9, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #50  
Mixed years hubs
Your passenger side hub is from a 2000 or 2001, the hub is shorter and the bolts longer as the alloy wheels that came stock were thicker than previous years. I found this out the hard way when I swapped a 2000 front axle in for my stock on my 1991 Cherokee and realized that my lugnuts were bottoming before the wheel was tight...not to mention my old brake rotors were grinding against the mud plate (2000 rotors are slightly shorter and have a wider inner opening as well...keep that in mind when you replace yours, you will need one for your original year and one for a 2000...caliper position and rotor thickness are the same and therefore pads are the same).
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