While you have the hubs off...throw those damn dust shields in the trash. The serve no purpose other than to keep dirt and rocks up against your rotors.

 

Okay that sounds like a plan. Any ideas on the different styles of hubs?

 

There are two different size hubs. I found this out when ordering from ebay. One is 1/8" taller than the other, which appears to be the case with yours. Take the factory one and get replacements of that size.


It seems your sway bar bushings that hold the main bar are wallowed out. I could be wrong, but it looks like it

 

yeah there was a transision in 95 on those wheel bearing hubs....Get the OEM part# and take that with you to ensure you get the right part..

 

Just a thought that this is an excellent time to inspect your axle u-joints while they are easy to get to. You may need to change them while you have it apart.

 

Axle u-joints seem to be good to go. I will be doing ball joints in the near future so I may do the U's then also. One question, when I was pulling the wheel bearings my axles slid out of the tubes a little bit, do I need to be concerned with this?

 

No they will slip right back in. THe unit bearings are the limiting factor in their placement. Once the unit bearings are out there is nothing holding the axles in place. So short answer is NO.

 

Yeah it's alright. Pull em out, clean off the ends and slowly guide them back into the diff. Try not to drag the end of the shaft along the inside of the tube. This shoves whatever junk is inside the tube, into the seal/bearing/. It makes quite a mess.

Here's an example of what happens if you slide em in through a dirty, muddy tube:




Gotta love mud.

 

its been a long time since i have had my hubs out and axles - but can the hubs be put back together without the axles in or is there no seal and when the axcels they just drain out? I can't remember either my honda has no deals on the axles or its my jeep.

 

oh - looking at those pics i guess i don't want to run without the axcels.. i need to replace the universals but without having my shop anymore and a press i wanted to be able to take them someplace in case i could not get the uv out.

 

Fluid will come out of the inner axle seals because the axle shaft will not be there to plug that hole. Plus the bearing needs to be tightened down on the outer stub shaft or it will pull apart and there goes your tire/wheel.

During an axle break, you can plug the axle tube with cloth or whatever and then put the outer stub shaft on the bearing and tighten it down to get off the trail and home.

 

thanks for that info!

 

Okay guys I finished it up. It only took me an hour to finish so the whole project took 2hrs. I had a friend helping me the night before, and finished it by myself. I must say that after replacing both sides my steering feels tighter and the ride is so quiet compared to before. I went ahead and bought 2 new wheel bearings and 2 new rotors to match. My reason for doing both sides is that the stock one was bad and the replaced one was the wrong one. My jeep being a 99 uses the Cast rotor and hub assembly not the Composite and whoever replaced the drivers side used the wrong stuff.

Anyways here are a couple of pics.






The parts were a little expensive because I went with the Napa Premium stuff. With my shop discount it was $360 for 2 bearings and 2 rotors. If you guys want a write up just let me know and I will post one up. Overall this project was probably the easiest thing I have ever done on a vehicle!

 

Good job and you are a trooper working in gravel instead of on a concrete slab or driveway. That would have killed my knees kneeling on gravel.

 

I find sitting on the tire saves the knees I work on gravel too. It can be a pain sometimes, especially when you drop little bolts....

Did you replace the pads with the rotors?