Ball Joint Replacement--What else should be done?
#1
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Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
Ball Joint Replacement--What else should be done?
So I need to replace my ball joint on the passenger side and I am going to go ahead and do all four. I got 2x Spicer 706944x set of ball joints (contains one top and one bottom). I also have the u-joints for the shafts (I got 2x duralast 1-0174DL). I have never worked on an axle before really and want to know what you guys suggest to replace while I am already taking every thing apart. I don't think my unit bearings are bad, since there is no play in the tire when I shake it.
Anything?
Anything?
#4
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Good topic. I Just ordered two Timken unit bearings from JC Whitney for $76.63 each. Why did I do this? I Have to do brake pads and rotors, the Jeep has 181,000 mi on it and I think the job is going to ex-x-x-pand into replacing the steering knuckles and ball joints and the u-joints. Ouch! Don't want to buy all those parts at one time cause it will suck my wallet bone dry. Dorman makes the knuckles and Rock Auto sells them for about $190.00 each. Does anyone know of a better price? I hope I don't strip out the caliper threads in the knuckle.
Anyway good luck on the project but don't be surprised if you find more to do than you first expected/wanted to do/ can afford to do! LOL....
Anyway good luck on the project but don't be surprised if you find more to do than you first expected/wanted to do/ can afford to do! LOL....
#5
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
So why would the knuckle need to be replaced unless it actually breaks. There aren't any serviceable parts on the knuckle is there.
I am fully prepared mentally to have to replace the unit bearing, but I am not going to unless I need to. That price from JC Whitney is about the best I have seen.
What about outer tube seals? If I change the U-joints, will I need to or should I relace that seal as well?
I am fully prepared mentally to have to replace the unit bearing, but I am not going to unless I need to. That price from JC Whitney is about the best I have seen.
What about outer tube seals? If I change the U-joints, will I need to or should I relace that seal as well?
#6
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The knuckles are badly rusted, especially the forks that the brake pads slide on. I may be able to save them by building weld and grinding on the surfaces the pads float on. I'm just preparing for the worst, considering the name I registered with.
I'm not sure if the Dana 30 has outer tube seals, but I've been warned not to nick the inner ones when I remove / replace the axle shafts. The ring and pinion carrier has to be removed to replace the inner seals.
UPDATE!!
Check out my photo gallery. I did the brakes this weekend and took some pics of my rotten knuckle. My unit bearings arrived and I'm still looking for a good price on the knuckles.
I'm not sure if the Dana 30 has outer tube seals, but I've been warned not to nick the inner ones when I remove / replace the axle shafts. The ring and pinion carrier has to be removed to replace the inner seals.
UPDATE!!
Check out my photo gallery. I did the brakes this weekend and took some pics of my rotten knuckle. My unit bearings arrived and I'm still looking for a good price on the knuckles.
Last edited by Knucklebuster; 02-14-2012 at 12:43 PM. Reason: Update
#7
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change your axle shaft u-joints while it's apart.
yes, be careful when you install the shafts, that seal can tear easily. and they're in the diff. yeah, you have to pull the carrier to change them.
yes, be careful when you install the shafts, that seal can tear easily. and they're in the diff. yeah, you have to pull the carrier to change them.
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