2000 XJ, 4.0, daily driver

My starter seems a bit weak lately...last week or two. The Engine coughs a bit during start, and had 2 or 3 times of no crank when I turned the key. Once the starter motor stalled (seemed a bit like weak battery) during crank.

The car is 13-14 years old...been through 3 mufflers and new brake lines, so I figured the starter would need replaced soon anyways, so I ordered a new one. Arrived in the mail this morning, but haven't put it in yet.

But...the weird parts was when I started my JEEP driving home tonight, my gauges all went dead, and odometer displyed "no bus". I drove home...seemed OK...but as mentioned, had no gauges.

A bit of research suggested CPS issue...but that would not explain weak/no crank. Could I have 2 problems at once??

CPS seems like rather a pain in the butt to replace. But, I don't like the idea of getting stranded in by daily driver.

Any suggestions??

THANKS as always!

 

I'd start here before getting the codes read. Also, with the right pointers, changing the CPS is not really so bad.

It's something that should be done anyway:

Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so if you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!

I'm not sure if the 2000 has 11mm/7/16 screws, or something screwy;

Change a CPS. A jack-stand under the left frame might be in your way. BACKING the front onto ramps is an option. Sometimes when I lift a vehicle, I see if I can push it off it's “lift” before I go underneath. You lay on your back with your feet out under the passenger side. With your LEFT hand you can reach up past the front drive-line to hold the CPS. (if your forearm is smaller than a quart mason jar)(if not maybe pull the drive-line). You want 11mm. or 7/16 socket, to 3 inch extension, to swivel,> then 18 to 24 inches of extension to your 3/8 ratchet in your RIGHT hand down by the tranny cross member. If there is a plastic deal there, can it. DON'T drop a bolt in there! (just don't!!!). When you are starting out, if you tie a long string, 5ive feet, to the old plug, you can then use that to haul the new one back up.
If your wires go through a metal band secured by an engine to bell housing bolt, cut them. To finish, zip tie, or make darn sure the wires won't rub/chafe or burn on anything. The second one is a relative piece if cake! (½ hr job!)

 

Yeah...thanks...maybe should have mentioned that I replaced the alternator about 6 months ago (bearing seized). I thought I cleaned the posts and terminals real good then, but have not touched them since.

I think I am going to swap out the starter and clean the connections again good this weekend. Probably going to let the CPS go...at least for now...

 

More than once...I've ended up being thanked more than once for being a pain in the **** and insisting on bare lead. Of course I myself had a "learning curve" on that. Others here know your 2000 better than me, but I have indeed seen posts of the gauges going screwy with CPS issues. Also mention of a weak battery doing what you describe. (I don't understand that, as the voltage should be up if it's running).

Anyway rule out a terminal connection! Best of luck.