Axle nut wont break loose
10-10-2009, 02:57 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Axle nut wont break loose
So long story short I was in the process of replacing the passenger side wheel hub and I can not for the life of me get the axle nut to break loose. I have tried a 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater and an impact wrench rated to 450 ft lbs. Is my only next option to cut the nut off?
Pictures, because I know CF members love to have a looksie.
Pictures, because I know CF members love to have a looksie.
10-10-2009, 05:34 PM
#5
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 ltr
all of the above mate and plenty of heat
usualy works, but have a fire extinguisher close incase the pb blaster sets fire!!!!
usualy works, but have a fire extinguisher close incase the pb blaster sets fire!!!!
10-10-2009, 06:35 PM
#6
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 w/ K&N and bored TB
I usually use Gunk Liquid Wrench, it works well in conjunction with a torch, it doesn't like to burn and its heavy and foamy until the flame hits it, then its thin and runny and soaks right in. But btw whats holding the opposite wheel from spinning? I left my brakes on and had someone apply them to take mine off, did you just leave one wheel on the ground?
Also, i'd just use a really long bar, you dont have to worry about snapping the wrench or socket (ive broken sockets on a 3/8 drive) since they are so big, if you dont want to buy one just use like a 2-3 foot piece of steel pipe that fits snugly around the wrench.
Also, i'd just use a really long bar, you dont have to worry about snapping the wrench or socket (ive broken sockets on a 3/8 drive) since they are so big, if you dont want to buy one just use like a 2-3 foot piece of steel pipe that fits snugly around the wrench.
Last edited by Iant333; 10-10-2009 at 06:38 PM.
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10-10-2009, 07:28 PM
#8
Newbie
Thread Starter
Had her locked in four low to keep it from spinning. I will try heating it up and the tire on the ground method. It has been soaking for a week with PB.
I'm hoping the heat works, because I really don't want to cut it off. Thanks guys, update tomorrow.
I'm hoping the heat works, because I really don't want to cut it off. Thanks guys, update tomorrow.
10-11-2009, 03:39 PM
#9
Senior Member
How'd it go? Get it off?
If they don't break free easily, I always put the wheel back on it and put full weight back on the tire. Only time I couldn't get an axle nut free, was on a Dodge Daytona and I was using a 10' bar... Wound up cutting it a bit with a Dremel cutoff wheel (fiber reinforced) and then a chisel.
If they don't break free easily, I always put the wheel back on it and put full weight back on the tire. Only time I couldn't get an axle nut free, was on a Dodge Daytona and I was using a 10' bar... Wound up cutting it a bit with a Dremel cutoff wheel (fiber reinforced) and then a chisel.
10-12-2009, 12:51 AM
#10
Newbie
Thread Starter
How'd it go? Get it off?
If they don't break free easily, I always put the wheel back on it and put full weight back on the tire. Only time I couldn't get an axle nut free, was on a Dodge Daytona and I was using a 10' bar... Wound up cutting it a bit with a Dremel cutoff wheel (fiber reinforced) and then a chisel.
If they don't break free easily, I always put the wheel back on it and put full weight back on the tire. Only time I couldn't get an axle nut free, was on a Dodge Daytona and I was using a 10' bar... Wound up cutting it a bit with a Dremel cutoff wheel (fiber reinforced) and then a chisel.
Corrosion and rust has made the bolts holding the hub assembly on impossible to break loose. Not to mention the axle nut. So I would have to cut the axle nut off and the hub bolts. I would rather do it right the first time and have a like new axle under the front end. If and when the drivers side goes I would be back in this boat.
Someone stop me if this does not make sense.
10-12-2009, 01:20 AM
#11
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Wire wheel the exposed stub clean (at least, as clean as you can get it.)
Grab yourself a propane torch (MAPP might be a bit hot...) and a block of paraffin wax. Make sure you have new stub shaft nuts before you start this - you'll wreck the temper of the nuts!
Set your torch on the finest flame you can manage. Heat the nut only until it reaches dull red. Make sure you go around the circumference of the nut, and don't heat the bearing assembly or the stub.
When you can get a fairly consistent red on the nut, touch the paraffin wax to the junction between the stub and the nut. The wax will melt and wick in between the threads.
Let it cool, then you should be able to remove the nut. Have a helper 'stand on' the brakes to lock the axle in place - works better than 4LO and sitting it on the ground (if you have a helper availble.)
This is the same trick used for things like removing oil galley plugs that have been in place for forty years, removing rusted-in-place screws (unless you can get away with burning them out) and other nastiness.
Grab yourself a propane torch (MAPP might be a bit hot...) and a block of paraffin wax. Make sure you have new stub shaft nuts before you start this - you'll wreck the temper of the nuts!
Set your torch on the finest flame you can manage. Heat the nut only until it reaches dull red. Make sure you go around the circumference of the nut, and don't heat the bearing assembly or the stub.
When you can get a fairly consistent red on the nut, touch the paraffin wax to the junction between the stub and the nut. The wax will melt and wick in between the threads.
Let it cool, then you should be able to remove the nut. Have a helper 'stand on' the brakes to lock the axle in place - works better than 4LO and sitting it on the ground (if you have a helper availble.)
This is the same trick used for things like removing oil galley plugs that have been in place for forty years, removing rusted-in-place screws (unless you can get away with burning them out) and other nastiness.
10-12-2009, 07:23 AM
#13
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
I just put a passenger side bearing in my 99'. I used PB and let it soak, heated with a torch(lil' propane) and tapped it loose with a chisel and hammer. Heads up to anyone doing front wheel bearings, but there is 3 diff hub/bearings.
10-12-2009, 11:54 AM
#14
Newbie
Thread Starter
Wire wheel the exposed stub clean (at least, as clean as you can get it.)
Grab yourself a propane torch (MAPP might be a bit hot...) and a block of paraffin wax. Make sure you have new stub shaft nuts before you start this - you'll wreck the temper of the nuts!
Set your torch on the finest flame you can manage. Heat the nut only until it reaches dull red. Make sure you go around the circumference of the nut, and don't heat the bearing assembly or the stub.
When you can get a fairly consistent red on the nut, touch the paraffin wax to the junction between the stub and the nut. The wax will melt and wick in between the threads.
Let it cool, then you should be able to remove the nut. Have a helper 'stand on' the brakes to lock the axle in place - works better than 4LO and sitting it on the ground (if you have a helper availble.)
This is the same trick used for things like removing oil galley plugs that have been in place for forty years, removing rusted-in-place screws (unless you can get away with burning them out) and other nastiness.
Grab yourself a propane torch (MAPP might be a bit hot...) and a block of paraffin wax. Make sure you have new stub shaft nuts before you start this - you'll wreck the temper of the nuts!
Set your torch on the finest flame you can manage. Heat the nut only until it reaches dull red. Make sure you go around the circumference of the nut, and don't heat the bearing assembly or the stub.
When you can get a fairly consistent red on the nut, touch the paraffin wax to the junction between the stub and the nut. The wax will melt and wick in between the threads.
Let it cool, then you should be able to remove the nut. Have a helper 'stand on' the brakes to lock the axle in place - works better than 4LO and sitting it on the ground (if you have a helper availble.)
This is the same trick used for things like removing oil galley plugs that have been in place for forty years, removing rusted-in-place screws (unless you can get away with burning them out) and other nastiness.
but that hurt my knuckles. Well its back to work for me this here Monday, so I will have to wait for the weekend before I try it again. Thanks again everyone.