attempting headliner replacement- any advice?
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
attempting headliner replacement- any advice?
Bought the jeep just a month ago with a sagging headliner and if i have 1 pet peeve about vehicles, it's sagging headliners. So I got it fully removed the other day and now it's sitting in my garage and it's waiting for me. I've called around and everyone wants too much money to redo it so I'm going to tackle it on my own. I've read a bunch of stuff and how to's just opening this thread up to all who want to throw their $.02 in before I try and hopefully don't screw something up.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
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Get 3 cans of spray on rubber undercoating and do that that rather than reupholster it. Cheaper, easier, and you never have to worry about another sagging headliner. Just my .02
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Year: 1997 limited
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#4
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Year: 2000
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that's a thought definitely but i plan on doing some light stereo stuff (nothing ghetto or jerry rigged) and i'm not sure how the accoustics would be with that kind of headliner....
definitely a thought though...
definitely a thought though...
#5
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Year: 1994
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get about 5+ cans of 3M Adhesive Spray and your good to go. I did mine, I used 5 cans, probably should have used 6 but no saggin yet. I used a camo style cloth headliner and love it. other than being careful when you lay down the cloth its an easy job.
#6
I used a three yards of vinyl and three cans of the Permatex stuff you find at Autozone. I followed the directions for number of coats and time between each and had no problems with the stuff holding. Sorry, no pics available right at the moment.
#7
Super easy to replace. With the xj I just opened my back door and the fiber board came right out. I took all of the material off and bought the 3m heat resistant material spray glue. Cost a bit buts it's lasted me so far. I used the stuff with foam on the backside so it would hide all of the imperfections. It worked as well. It is super smooth and looks like a professional did it.
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#9
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Wow....I did mine with two cans, a year and a half ago...its still looking great.
#10
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Year: 1996
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Will that keep the interior less hot? I have no headlinner and it gets screaming hot inside. I dont care about how it looks so Im considering anything to cut the temp down. On a hot day the roof is so hot to the touch it burns skin.
#11
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if you do decide to re upholster it, make sure you fold the ends over the edge..cuz i didnt notice i cut the front right on the line and if left a little gap..but as long as you use enough adhesive you should be fine, i used 2 cans and it was more than enough..just spray both the fabric and the headliner.
#12
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Year: 1994
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I dropped it off at a local upholstery shop, went to work, picked it up at lunch looking as good as new - no mess, no fuss. Best $200 spent. Had them do the visors while they were at it.
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Rommie did this in her DD subby after her buddy did his Mk 2 vdub. His looked better only cause the pattern; his was a black background w/ red and white (possibly grey as well...) lines. They were wavy and intertwining and followed no specific line. I guess the only critique is there are a couple of bad folds in fabric that don't look super classy. My roomies is a nice blue, not dark, not electric... With a blue plaid. Pretty classy, but the fact that the pattern is straight lines provides some noticeable areas where the fabric was not laid on quite straight. I guess it comes down to just how much you care... Also, both headliners were sitting on a table at the time, so even with the parts out of car, you can still mess up. They seed about 2-3 cans of 3M each and after about 1/2 year both are holding strong.. I've heard that bedlining the floor can increase the cabs temp. So by this logic, it will do the same if applied to roof? Idk, but that's my 02
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If you're gonna do this, a couple things to look at though are:
1. How your front dome will look/function. I actually did away with it, snagged a review mirror from a late 90's/early 2000's GM car with the map lights. Spliced in the wiring to the dome wiring, and the map lights come on with the doors opening, the head light switch turned all the way, and the switches on the mirror.
2. Securing your rear sound bar (if you have one). I just used some Permatex "The Right Stuff" on the sides where it meets the roof and also put 2 self taps in as well just to be safe.
3. Securing the rear cargo light. This one is pretty simple, just get some silicone, put it on the plastic surround and stick it up there.
Items needed:
3 cans of rubberized undercoat
1 mirror w/ map lights
3 butt-end connectors (wiring)
1 can of Permatex "The Right Stuff" gasket maker
4 self tapping screws
Total cost for me was $23.
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