You go up any in speaker size? I know lots of people squeeze 6.5" speakers in the doors

 

I went with 5.25s for peace of mind that they would fit first try.

Speaker and headunit installed today along with new wiring for the front speakers. Also pit dielectric grease on all door connectors and the passenger window switch now works.

A surprise chain of events happened on my ride home unfortunately. Noticed the jeep lost alot of power suddenly. First thought it was heat soak as it was running 210+ then I discovered it was stuck front brake calipers. Had to limp it home and I'm sure all the parts are cooked by now so I ordered all new. Also caused the jeep to run hot from the added stress so I drove home with the heat blasting in 85 degree weather...

Got a random check engine light and a number 3 cylinder misfire too. Hoping it's just a spark plug issue because I have a full set waiting to be installed. Maybe cps if it's not that? Jeep ran perfectly until the random code.

 

Nice progress! Good move on just replacing the brakes. If you haven't ordered new hoses, replace those as well.

The cooling system goes into full tilt around 218°F but overheating on these things is considered 240°F or more. If your gauge didn't hit the red I wouldn't be concerned. Being a 0331 of course I'd make sure to check the oil and watch the coolant level like a hawk.

With high heat in 2000+ you commonly get fuelling problems related to heat soak. I know you mentioned the heat shield on the manifold but is there any on the injectors themselves? The boiled fuel causes exactly this problem, rough running and misfire on #3 and/or #4 until it passes and the system cools.

Another thing - if you were driving against siezed brakes for a while it'd be a great time to check the transmission fluid and make sure it's still happy and red.

 

Thanks to everyone for the input so far.

I went ahead and replaced the seized caliper, rotor on that side, pads and hoses on both sides and made sure to lube the slide pins on the side that was not seized.

I replaced the plugs which looked fine so unfortunately I am suffering the cylinder 3 misfire from heat soak. I found this is a common problem through some searching. Seems like there is no way to really fix this without tapping into the electric fan and making it run depending on the coolant temp or by putting it on a timer. I will likely go the thermo fan controller route. I failed emissions because the check engine light popped up as I was parked at the shop. Go figure.

 

Use a piece of black tape over the CEL to get an inspection. The tape blends in and is not noticeable. Or unplug the bulb, which is more involved.

 

Although that would be a seemingly easy fix, they use a diagnostics tool and check for codes as a default procedure.

 

I see. Here in NC they only check the basics. Maybe a different shop?

 

I think they all do it here per state regs. I think I'll just install a fan timer or thermo switch so I don't have to worry about it. I want to keep this jeep for a while so It will be worth it.

 

So was that a yes or no on the heat wrap on the injectors themselves? That's the official Chrysler TSB method.

 

It does not have the thermal tape on the injectors. That seems to be a hit or miss fix. In a scorching hot engine bay it's easy to understand why the silly pieces of metal do not solve every case of heat soak. For 7 bucks though I imagine I will try this fix first.

My progress today was the installation of a new fan clutch. After seeing the temp gauge spike the other day I figured I should do this. Only cooling system parts that haven't been replaced yet are the radiator and hoses. I am running 205-215 degrees on average in 90 degree temps with the ac running most of the time. I can hear both fans doing their job when stopped with the ac on.

 

215 oh yes that's nowhere near overheating! That's good at least.

The injector wrap method is from the official Chrysler TSB. If this is happening to your XJ while it's running, though, this may not be your issue. Especially if the electric fan is always on. The Chrysler TSB specifically addresses a situation where fuel boils in the injectors when temperature spikes after the engine is shut off and air stops moving.

 

My problem is most definitely the typical injector #3 heat soak. The jeep was parked about ten mins after running the ac in 90 degree weather. Restarted and I got the sputter and check engine light/code. Drove home and the engine ran perfectly fine after a short period of time. This is the only time I ever had the issue and I've driven a few hundred miles with it.

 

So you guys are saying it's normal for the engine bay to get so hot that i have to either wait or hurry like hell to open the hood after shutting it down? Cause I'm sure if it were bare metal it would burn my fingers

 

Yes! It feels like your hand is burning while inserting prop-rod.
The solution is the hood-lift. It takes over after the hood comes up 6". Opens and hold hood securely.
I used old struts from the rear liftgate. New struts are too powerful unless you can find ones with a lower psi rating.
No more hot-hands.

 

Damn, that's a clean looking engine bay Steve!!