Any ideas
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Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 62
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From: Indianapolis
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replacing crankshaft sensor today and noticed one of the bolts is a bit rounded off...im the second owner so im assuming its been replaced before...its such a pain the *** to get to...any ideas to get this bolt out?
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 564
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From: Aldergrove,BC,Canada
Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L I6
easiest way of doing this job is to unbolt the cross member and lower it down, this allows you room to get up there and access the bolts. as for the round bolt head, get some easy out sockets.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 62
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From: Indianapolis
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by mud-dog27
easiest way of doing this job is to unbolt the cross member and lower it down, this allows you room to get up there and access the bolts. as for the round bolt head, get some easy out sockets.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 564
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From: Aldergrove,BC,Canada
Year: 1989
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: 4.0L I6
1-place jack under crossmember
2-remove 4 nuts holding crossmember to framerails[i know its a unibody], or bolts if you have a drop kit.
3-lower slowly until you can access CPS, keep in mind at some point the valve cover will contact the firewall, but that was only and issue with my old motor mounts.Keep an eye on transfer case linkage, or disconnect it at the tcase so ya dont stretch the bushings and throw your shifter out of alignment.
4-place block of wood under crossmember if need be will working on it as you dont wanna just leave it hanging.
5-RE & RE CPS and reverse steps
Note: id suggest some PB blaster or WD40 on those crossmember bolts before removal they can be a ***** if they have never been removed, and be cautioned there is the potential that these studs may brea in frame rails....again a ***** but i have a fix for it if need be
Good Luck
Ill be doing it this weekend as im just wrapping up my 5spd swap and kinda forgot to put my CPS back in when things were going together so ill snap some pics.
2-remove 4 nuts holding crossmember to framerails[i know its a unibody], or bolts if you have a drop kit.
3-lower slowly until you can access CPS, keep in mind at some point the valve cover will contact the firewall, but that was only and issue with my old motor mounts.Keep an eye on transfer case linkage, or disconnect it at the tcase so ya dont stretch the bushings and throw your shifter out of alignment.
4-place block of wood under crossmember if need be will working on it as you dont wanna just leave it hanging.
5-RE & RE CPS and reverse steps
Note: id suggest some PB blaster or WD40 on those crossmember bolts before removal they can be a ***** if they have never been removed, and be cautioned there is the potential that these studs may brea in frame rails....again a ***** but i have a fix for it if need be
Good Luck
Ill be doing it this weekend as im just wrapping up my 5spd swap and kinda forgot to put my CPS back in when things were going together so ill snap some pics.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,172
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From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Personally I have never had to remove the cross member. It was never even been close to being in the way. I just used 2 long extensions. As for the rounded head I would do as Rich131 suggested and buy grip-tite super sockets. And what ever you do DO NOT drop the bolt in the little hole around the CPS or you will have to pull the trans to get them out.
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Joined: May 2010
Posts: 198
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From: Portland OR
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 liter
From the ratchet, and 18", 12", 4", 2" wobble extension then socket in that order got mine out and in with no probs.
An inspection mirror helps get the socket on and off as well.
it's probably rounded from someone using SAE on metric or vice versa.
An inspection mirror helps get the socket on and off as well.
it's probably rounded from someone using SAE on metric or vice versa.
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