Anti-Seize
x2 here. Ive used it for years on the dodge truck and on those b%*#$(## lug bolts on my old VW Scirocco. Nuts never failed to come off, and never had one loosen up with correct torque.
Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 222
Likes: 1
From: Rochester, MIchigan
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Have been using it for years here in the rust belt on all my vehicles since being advised by the guys at the brake shop to do so. Torque the lug nuts to specs in steps in a star pattern...do not over torque.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i started out with the RE 5.5 extreme duty lift on this jeep 5 years ago, but have swapped most of it out now.
i think the only thing RE i have left in my jeep is the trackbar, upgraded 5.5 leafs and RE 2 inch shackle.
the front springs are now 8 inch skyjacker with "clayton" longarms.
i think the only thing RE i have left in my jeep is the trackbar, upgraded 5.5 leafs and RE 2 inch shackle.
the front springs are now 8 inch skyjacker with "clayton" longarms.
Yep - I've done it on all my vehicles since my 1966 Bug.
NB: Check the back of the bottle. The old thumb rule (with good reason!) is to reduce the torque by half when using never-seez. I'm told this is no longer the case (apparently, they've managed to cut the lubricating properties of the stuff...) but until I can verify it for myself, the rule will stand.
Pretty much anything that coats the threads can work for you - in a pinch, I've even used RTV!
NB: Check the back of the bottle. The old thumb rule (with good reason!) is to reduce the torque by half when using never-seez. I'm told this is no longer the case (apparently, they've managed to cut the lubricating properties of the stuff...) but until I can verify it for myself, the rule will stand.
Pretty much anything that coats the threads can work for you - in a pinch, I've even used RTV!
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 9
From: Paso Robles Ca
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yep - I've done it on all my vehicles since my 1966 Bug.
NB: Check the back of the bottle. The old thumb rule (with good reason!) is to reduce the torque by half when using never-seez. I'm told this is no longer the case (apparently, they've managed to cut the lubricating properties of the stuff...) but until I can verify it for myself, the rule will stand.
Pretty much anything that coats the threads can work for you - in a pinch, I've even used RTV!
NB: Check the back of the bottle. The old thumb rule (with good reason!) is to reduce the torque by half when using never-seez. I'm told this is no longer the case (apparently, they've managed to cut the lubricating properties of the stuff...) but until I can verify it for myself, the rule will stand.
Pretty much anything that coats the threads can work for you - in a pinch, I've even used RTV!
I've used it for years and I still have all my lug nuts. They are held in place by the geometry of the thread and the taper of the lug nut, not the "friction" in the threads if you torque them properly. Winter + Salt + Mud + Dirt road = use antisieze on everything.
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
Likes: 100
From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
NB: Check the back of the bottle. The old thumb rule (with good reason!) is to reduce the torque by half when using never-seez. I'm told this is no longer the case (apparently, they've managed to cut the lubricating properties of the stuff...) but until I can verify it for myself, the rule will stand.
read step 6.
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/81343.pdf
Most good torque charts have dry & wet torque. See below:
http://www.cncexpo.com/InchBoltTorque.aspx
http://www.cncexpo.com/InchBoltTorque.aspx
Last edited by tomasharvey; Jun 27, 2009 at 11:22 AM.


