Ok here is the story... Got a 96 XJ about a month ago from my buddy's father in law(lifted with 31s) and was running awesome.
Researched and wanted to do the electric fan swap. Bought a Zirgo 3000 CFM electric fan with relay, got that on, comes on at 180.

But broke the plastic tank on the stock radiator during the process, so i searched CF and decided to buy CSF 2 core from radiator barn. Got it all installed

Now running down the highway at 65-70mph with the A/C it gets hot... It gets to the line before the red and i pull over and stop and let it run and it cools down(A/C still on and no heater)

I have spent hours and hours searching CF and trying to figure what the deal is.

*I have put 2 stant superstat 195 thermostats in
*Fan is pulling the right way
*Water pump is 10 months old from the guy i bought it from
*Hoses look good

Any other ideas? never had a problem before all this, Thanks for the help in advance. First post, but have used this forum a ton and has provided a lot of help

 

So, you're saying it didn't overheat with the clutch fan, but it does with the electric fan....sounds like the clutch fan was doing a better job.

 

At 65-70 mph, shouldn't need any fan.....is the efan running at hi-way speed?

 

Yea, but on the highway at 70 it should have enough forced air without a fan i would think

 

I believe it is, at least it is when I stop and can hear it. Also did an exhaust gas test on the coolant for blown headgasket and was ok

 

New system... possibly still have some air trapped?

 

If the efan is running while driving 70 mph, it can impede air flow.

 

Thanks for the help so far,
I have had this problem for a few weeks now and think most the air should be out after a couple heat cycles right??
should i unplug the fan and run it down the highway?

 

Is there coolant in the tank? (plastic) Flip on your heat, are you getting HOT air, or just so-so?

When you pull the radiator cap, is it to the top? I will pull my cap and start the engine. I wait for the thermostat to open and watch the level drop a bit. I add what I can and close her back up. I put on the prestone flush kit so I can crack the upper heater hose during a refill and bleed more air out. Works well.

 

yea coolant in the plastic tank, used a funnel to fill it, took off the heater hose while filling to get most the air out of the head, then, left the cap open til thermostat opened and then gave the upper hose some pushes to get the air out.

 

here ya go...there are more than a few of us with the same problem with the csf radiator.
ck out the 3 links below...

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7510

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7847

http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=544

your'e not alone in this

 

Most automotive mfgs. have gone to single row (very wide tube) aluminum rad cores with plastic tanks. Copper/brass (multi narrow row) rads are old school. We installed a new OE type (1 1/4" wide 1 row) rad 3 weeks ago.....at 75 mph, a/c roarin', 106F ambient, the ScanGauge indicated +/-200F.

 

Did you check the condition of your lower radiator hose spring. I have seen them rot away and then the hose collapses when under a high speed load. Also as a side note I have had a brand new pump go bad after a couple of months so when it's hot make sure your top hose is hard and hot. (Just like the old lady likes it.)

 

Awesome info.. A little late but awesome.. lol i might try to get my old rad fixed or find another oem style to try out. Thanks for all the help

As for the lower hose, it doesnt collapse at 2-3k rpm so should be fine on the highway