Hey guys,

So just bought this '99 XJ with a broken cluster, blinkers and lights work just no gauges work no needle movement.

Bought a junkyard cluster for 40 bucks, installed it thinking it will magically work.
Does not work, have all my lights when I do the cluster test where you hold the trip button turn the key to run and then release the ODO trip button. Just no movement on the speedometer, tachometer,or all the other gauges. odometer doesnt read any mileage either, on the old cluster or the new.

Now I've checked a few fuses interior fuse panel 6,9, 12, and 16... all those fuses were good.

Then i checked the fuse box under the hood and didnt find any blown fuses.

Looked behind the plugs and didn't see any obvious loose or frayed wires.

Tried QD Electronic Cleaner on the contacts, and hitting the dash
pushing it in real good i tried all that
Now i need the gauges to work because I just bought the Jeep and I need to get it inspected in the state of MA after I register it and I also want to watch my gauges so i have a better idea of how she runs because I am just getting to know this XJ


ANY input? Thanks

 

F16 (IOD) in the PDC and F9 in the JB are the only fuses powering the instrument cluster.


Remove and replace these fuses with new ones.

 

Just replaced F16 and F9 with new ones, still no gauges. all the lights work still

 

these symptoms with any other Chrysler of that era I would say the body control module has died. I don't know if the cherokee ever had one though. Any one know?

 

The XJ's don't have a body control module.

 

Had someone say my ECM may be the cause, What would i be looking on it? Loose plugs? or use contact cleaner on it? Or could it just be faulty ecm?

 

check CCD BUS connections at instrument cluster
Connector C2 at cluster, pin#1 and pin#2
Connector C3 at ECM, pin #28 and Pin#30

pin#28 should have continuity with pin#1 - CCD(-)
pin#30 should have continuity with pin#2 - CCD(+)

Also read this thread:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/98-...-check-189826/

 

The cluster may not be getting power (even with good fuses), or may not be getting a good ground(s).


Below is the cluster connector pin outs for C1 and C2. You can check for voltage at the power pin cavities and check resistance to chassis ground at the ground pin cavities.


Power would be with ignition to ON/RUN.


Location of C1 and C2:



.
Pinouts:

 

Alright so get a multimeter and check those pins? what should my results be? and if they are not? thanks guys

Edit: 20 May 2015
Multimeter coming in the mail from amazon today, will test those connections and post results

 

Alright dummy question, how exactly do i test these with my multimeter?
It's funny I'm an Air Force C-130 mechanic and I'm not experienced in the world of multimeters

 

Set the multi-meter to DC volts. If it has a range, select something that will read up to 12 volts. Put the black probe on the ground and the red probe you will move around to touch each pin. If one of those sensors is supposed to light up something, you will usually get either 12V or 5V or something like that. If you get nothing, that tells you something. To test continuity to ground, you would set to resistance (Ohms scale) and then touch a baremetal location on the body or the negative terminal on the body and then touch another ground location to see if there is resistance (bad ground). If you get 0 when touching grounds with battery ground that's good. If it's a few ohms not too bad. If more than a few, clean up the grounds.

 

Thanks.

Now do i have to back probe? which would require taking the whole dash off? or can i stick the multimeter probes into the electrical connectors?

 

No back probing required. Remove the instrument cluster and review the pic above that shows the location of C1 and C2.


Do not stick the probes in to the pin cavities - just touch them.


Refer to the above C1 and C2 connector pin outs (in the dash). I have added the source for the pin cavities you will be testing in red.


Verify the C1 and C2 connectors are firmly docked in the dash structure and not flopping around.


Hope you have a manual ranging digital multimeter to use.


Here's one that's fairly cheap:


http://www.harborfreight.com/11-func...ity-61593.html


Refer to the pic below for the location of your meter ground probe.


Start by checking for voltage at connector C1.


Set your meter to 20 Volts DC.


With the ignition switch to RUN/ON (engine not running), probe pin cavity 8. You should see battery voltage (12 V).


With the ignition switch to LOCK, probe pin cavity 9. You should see battery voltage (12 V).


Next, check for continuity in the two ground pin cavities.


Remove the battery negative post connector when using an Ohmmeter to check for continuity.


Set your meter to the 200 Ohm scale.


Probe pin cavity 6 in C1. You should read continuity (no more than 5 Ohms). Repeat at pin cavity 9 in C2.


G108 is located in the dash structure which is the chassis structure. The pic below shows the gas pedal attach structure. The studs/nuts in the pic are attached to the chassis structure.

 

I was a USAF aircraft mechanic (AFSC 43151A) from 1964 to 1968. Same experience - the USAF had too many specialists, only electricians were allowed to use multimeters. Had to learn how to use them when becoming a civilian aircraft mechanic.

 

I'm not gonna open a new thread, but my problem with instrument gauges is just slightly different: the distinguishing element is that I get no gauges (on a '98 XJ) only when the car is "cold" and preferably since I park the XJ in a quite wet place (woods and trees) on the hills surrounding my city (I live in a seaside town).

After 15 to 30 minutes since startup, usually and depending on moisture, weather, etc., they are up and running again. When they're off, I have no gauges and no odometer – but every light is working. I tried almost every troubleshooting procedure found on this forum.

Seems like an oxidation problem to me... But where to look without disassembling the whole truck? Any idea/hint?
Thanks in advance!