frantic29

Went to warn my Jeep up this morning and it seems like the alternator isn't charging. It started fine and it had ran for about 5 minutes. As I was scraping the windshield it started making whining noise. I got in the cab and the voltage was slowly dropping I turned everyhing off (fan, lights, rear defrost) and it slowed down but was still dropping. Had to be to work so I couldnt do a lot of trouble shooting. Basically just checked the belt real quick and tightness on the battery cables. Seemed fine to me. I was thinking alternator. That sound about right for those symptoms?

Sorry for the kind of shotty trouble shooting. Have to work today till three and everything will be closed tomorrow. Doesnt leave a lot of time.
1996 XJ 4.0. Battery is 3 months old. Die Hard 800 CCA group 34 if that makes a difference.

belvedere

First thing to do is tighten the belt and clean all the connections on the battery terminals (both ends). Use a voltmeter to check the voltage at the battery while the Jeep is running - should be around 14-14.5V.

SHELBYGT NSM

Take it to your local auto dealer and have your battery and alternator checked, you will save alot of time by doing that. But it does sound like the alternator is shot.

RTorrez1

After you clean all of the connections and the belt and if it doesn't take care of your problem Have the Alt bench tested and the battery load tested. Just because you battery is only 3 months old doesn't mean it can't be bad. Anyway, check out those things and let us know what the out come is. If you are still having a problem we can go from there.

frantic29

Alright. This is annoying me. So I got my girlfriend to take the battery out while I was at work and take it to have it tested. Tested good. I got home cleaned all the connections belt was good. Put the voltmeter to it and before start the battery was at 12.5. Had the girlfriend start it and it slowly started dropping as it ran. I figure I'll pull the alternator take it to have it tested real quick and probably end up with a new alternator. Thats when I hit trouble.

The "engineers" who designed this thing didn't deserve the title to put it nicely. Got the belt off, (which has the dumbest procedure ever by the way) got the bolts out of the alternator got all the electrical unhooked and then couldn't get the alternator to come completely loose. The top mounting spacer was caught on the top mounting bracket. Fooled with that way to long and finally just took the mounting plate on the front of the alternator off which allowed me enough play to get the top mount loose. Now the part that really pisses me off. Am I seeing it right that have to pull the mech fan in order to pull out the alternator? I looked at a couple right ups on this and saw nothing about this in either of them. Is that supposed to be common knowledge or something. Either way I am now out of daylight everything is closed tomorrow and looks like I may have to actually put the alternator back on along with the belt in order to get enough tension on the mech fan clutch to loosen the bolts. Please tell me I an idiot and am just missing something here. If so great. If not I will be beyond pissed.

Roler

I got a rhd, so my alternator is where your ac compressor lives. Once I get home, I will see if I can post the procedure for removing the alternator from the FSM. Maybe in the meantime, another member might be able to do this.

For future reference, you can check your alternator for proper operation while it is still in the car, pretty much like youstarted doing. You are looking for an increase in voltage over your battery > 0.5 volts compared to engine off. If that's OK, you can mimick a load test (sort of) by starting to switch on all accessories, like ac, radio, lights, etc and see if your alternator is keeping voltage up. If this shows voltage is dropping too much, don't condemn your alternator right away. There can also be loss of current over the connections between alternator and battery.
Ericthecarguy.com has an excellent video on alternator testing, explaining the above. In the us you can have batt and alternator tested for free, but like you experience now, you will need to remove them for that.
Like was stated, belt tension is something not to overlook.

jamurrin

Don't know for sure about the '96...but I just did my 2000 alternator...and had a bit of hassle getting it out, too...there are a lot of videos on YouTube...you can check that out to see if there is something close.

For the 2000, it helps if you remove the battery tray...and you need to drop the alternator out the bottom...cannot do it from above...

investinwaffles

Sounds like the alternator is dead/dying to me. You definitely have to remove the battery tray, but shouldn't have to remove anything else. It is a very tight squeeze though.

Once you get the alternator loose of the bracket (try using a pry bar to pry it towards the pass. side fender), the alternator should slide backwards a bit and you can remove it by sliding it past the AC compressor lines, and up towards where the battery tray was mounted (be careful not to bend or put a crack in any lines).

I am unfortunately not around my jeep so I cant take any pics, but the alternator slides out from the top of the engine bay (My 98 stock alternator was impossible to remove from the bottom, and the larger ZJ/durango alternator I bought slid in from the top as well). Basically just keep f-ing with it, rotate it every which way, and it should come out right as you are about to pull your hair out


EDIT:
I would say, dont even bother with a stock 90amp replacement, unless you dont want to take the time to grind the alternator brackets down to fit a larger ZJ/Durango alternator (it took me 10mins or so of grinding to get the clearance I need). Lots of good threads that explain how this is done. For your year, the alternator is externally regulated by the PCM and the connector difference between 98 to 99 Chrysler alternators is only cosmetic (the wires all sync-up, and you can transfer your old connector to the replacement alternator very easily by pulling the back cover off). This is only really applicable if you get a junkyard alternator. Check these two pics;


Here is the old connector, and you just screw it in place on the new alternator (ignore the old brushes/holder that you see to the left of the connector assembly).


And the replacement Durango alternator I picked up (notice the connector is different). The connector is removed with like 4 screws, and the one that fits your jeep will drop right in place.

frantic29

Finally found a write up dedicated 96 and it looks like fan removal is the only option. There is a black canister having to do with the AC (not sure what its purpose is) only about 3-4" behind the alternator that keep the alternator from clearing the brackets. On all the pics I have seen the only ones that have it in this location seem to be the 1996 models.

I would do the up grade but with it being Thanksgiving and not having a grinder I'm going to skip it this time. I just need the damn thing running again. Now i'm off to try and get the mech fan off without having to remount everything to keep the clutch from turning.

frantic29

Ok done. Had a buddy that brought me his back up alternator. So that was nice. Put all together and nowits good. Thanks for replying back. Will probably go for the upgrade this summer. I do know one thing. I have some new leaks that need fixing. Been kind of neglecting it with deer season being here. Will get back at when that's over.

OleBlue

Saw this to late, I found it eaiset to take the mech fan off on mine and the alternator slides right out. Use a pry bar or screw driver between the studs on the fan and loosen the nuts while you hold it in place. Easy peezee

RTorrez1

It's always nice when you have good friends like that around.