adjusting valvetrain?
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
adjusting valvetrain?
i feel like my jeep has a "non-normal tick to it.
I think the valve train , maybe a lifter is not as tight as the others
could this be or not very likely
I hear, what sounds like a small exhaust leak when my jeep is very cold from being left outside over night
once the jeep is warm its gone..
i have no exhaust leaks, new manifold...new exhaust all the way back
its for sure coming from the motor
I think the valve train , maybe a lifter is not as tight as the others
could this be or not very likely
I hear, what sounds like a small exhaust leak when my jeep is very cold from being left outside over night
once the jeep is warm its gone..
i have no exhaust leaks, new manifold...new exhaust all the way back
its for sure coming from the motor
#3
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
i feel like my jeep has a "non-normal tick to it.
I think the valve train , maybe a lifter is not as tight as the others
could this be or not very likely
I hear, what sounds like a small exhaust leak when my jeep is very cold from being left outside over night
once the jeep is warm its gone..
i have no exhaust leaks, new manifold...new exhaust all the way back
its for sure coming from the motor
I think the valve train , maybe a lifter is not as tight as the others
could this be or not very likely
I hear, what sounds like a small exhaust leak when my jeep is very cold from being left outside over night
once the jeep is warm its gone..
i have no exhaust leaks, new manifold...new exhaust all the way back
its for sure coming from the motor
#4
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Year: 2000
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Engine: 4.0L
Mine was doing the same thing and was very similar to a stuck lifter ticking sound. It was coming from my EGR purge solonoid valve. The sound was more noticeable from inside the cab,when I popped the hood it was masked by engine noise. It's located near the top of the firewall near the passenger side. You can put your hand on it and feel it clicking in time with the idling engine.My friend has a 2001 TJ and the very same purge valve but his doesnt make any sound but you can feel it clicking if you put your hand on it. We swapped valves and mine ran quiet on his jeep and his clicked loud on mine. Strange but not causing any problems so I just live with it.
#5
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Goober, That's not the EGR, its the I forget...charkol canister purge deal. I have seen posted that can make a constant click/buzz there on the firewall. The Exhaust Gas Recalculation valve,,, I don't think does that.
Black, try a couple easy, top manifold bolts: Often I'll come back to something and check for tightness.
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
Black, try a couple easy, top manifold bolts: Often I'll come back to something and check for tightness.
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
#6
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Year: 1990
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Goober, That's not the EGR, its the I forget...charkol canister purge deal. I have seen posted that can make a constant click/buzz there on the firewall. The Exhaust Gas Recalculation valve,,, I don't think does that.
Black, try a couple easy, top manifold bolts:
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
Black, try a couple easy, top manifold bolts:
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep.
#7
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Year: 90,84
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I did The old American Motors six's postal fleet Jeeps a bit. There and with some Toyota's I didn't bother with a torque wrench even on head bolts. (all friends, and my own.) never a problem. You've got , "the feel" I guess.
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#8
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Year: 1990
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Well, with head bolts, rod bolts, main bearing cap bolts etc, I use a torque wrench.
#10
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Year: 1990
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Too late:
#12
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VHT wrinkle finish. Their primer, color coat, their clear, then cook for an hour at 200*.
#13
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Year: 1999
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ok guys, had a post about oil earlier
Im using castrol synthetic blend 10w30 and a purolator gold (yellowish) filter
another party mentioned manifold bolts, which is what im leaning toward since i replaced the manifold last fall
Its not a egr valve or anything like that. My 98 ram has that...not the same tick
The wierd part about this tick issue, it only does it when its cold
When i leave it parked in my garage or outside and its below freezing...i start it up and it sounds like a exhaust leak for 3-5 seconds, then it goes away....
but when you start driving right after a cold start it sounds like a small leak or like a lifter is sticking.
again only does it when its cold...once it gets to operating temp, sound is gone
now another issue that might be related....
When the motor is warm at 195.....when i really give it some gas and hit 2500 rpms or so...i can hear the valvetrain make almost the same noise
could this be the thin oil not protecting at 2500 rpm or higher?
Could it be related issues, im not sure
2 different issues...advice on both? or one?
Im using castrol synthetic blend 10w30 and a purolator gold (yellowish) filter
another party mentioned manifold bolts, which is what im leaning toward since i replaced the manifold last fall
Its not a egr valve or anything like that. My 98 ram has that...not the same tick
The wierd part about this tick issue, it only does it when its cold
When i leave it parked in my garage or outside and its below freezing...i start it up and it sounds like a exhaust leak for 3-5 seconds, then it goes away....
but when you start driving right after a cold start it sounds like a small leak or like a lifter is sticking.
again only does it when its cold...once it gets to operating temp, sound is gone
now another issue that might be related....
When the motor is warm at 195.....when i really give it some gas and hit 2500 rpms or so...i can hear the valvetrain make almost the same noise
could this be the thin oil not protecting at 2500 rpm or higher?
Could it be related issues, im not sure
2 different issues...advice on both? or one?
#14
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Year: 1990
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Try this. Upon start-up and hearing the tick, shut the engine off. Restart it after 30 seconds. Is the tick gone?
#15
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Year: 1999
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