Adding lift to a RE 3.5"
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So this started when I got my stock tires and wheels sold for good money, and I decided to get a new set of tires for the Moabs. I went with 265/75R16s (up from 245s) MT/Rs. They would clear just fine if the swaybar always stayed connected, but it doesn't
I picked up some jks adjustable coil spacers on craigslist a while back for cheap, so I figure I could use them in the front and block up the rear. (I know, I know, blocks are evil)
Apparently the jks acs at the lowest setting space up 1.5", which should be more than enough, and I don't think a 1.5" block in the rear should hurt.
Has anybody done something like this? What problems am I going to run into? Alignment, ride quality, etc. Should I really have longer LCA's? I'm also wondering if my driveshafts will handle it. Probably should have stuck with the 245's but oh well.
I would appreciate any input!
I picked up some jks adjustable coil spacers on craigslist a while back for cheap, so I figure I could use them in the front and block up the rear. (I know, I know, blocks are evil)
Apparently the jks acs at the lowest setting space up 1.5", which should be more than enough, and I don't think a 1.5" block in the rear should hurt.
Has anybody done something like this? What problems am I going to run into? Alignment, ride quality, etc. Should I really have longer LCA's? I'm also wondering if my driveshafts will handle it. Probably should have stuck with the 245's but oh well.
I would appreciate any input!
Last edited by fox128; Jun 7, 2009 at 07:36 PM.
Senior Member

Joined: May 2008
Posts: 817
Likes: 7
From: Michigan
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Probably just need adjustable upper control arms, and an adjustable track bar. I would build a set of bastard packs for the rear and run longer shackels, this will also give you some positive pinion angle. I would not run blocks, or just cut the fenders and add some cut out flairs.
Last edited by BLKXJ 96; Jun 7, 2009 at 07:32 PM.
::CF Administrator::
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 10,039
Likes: 16
From: Okc area
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Get a 1" or 2" lift shackles..Don't get blocks they suck and will wear out your leaf packs. Plus the shackles should improve flex..I know it's either tomken or TNT that makes a nice set of boomerang style shackles and not the revolver style.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i started out putting in 3/4" spacers in the front, which still didn't give the the clearance i wanted and didn't have any negative effects, so i just went ahead and put on the jks acos on and blocked up the rear.(i'll get add a leaves or something to replace the blocks) I didn't change anything else, and it flexes and drives like it did before. i can tell the front axle is shifted to the left a little bit, so i should probably get a adjustable track bar, but wouldn't that change the geometry with the steering and cause bumpsteer?
i cranked them just a little when i had the winch on the front.

i went rock crawling in co with it, and it performed great! im around 5.25" of lift now.
i cranked them just a little when i had the winch on the front.

i went rock crawling in co with it, and it performed great! im around 5.25" of lift now.
Last edited by fox128; Aug 22, 2009 at 10:47 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 922
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From: Grand Haven, Michigan
Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It looks like your front metal brake lines are in the original place. Did you add longer flex lines? The RE 3.5" lift recommends straightening out the metal brake line and redrilling the mounting hole.
Why did you go away from the MTR's? I thought after 3 sets you were a diehard fan? LOL...
Mike
Why did you go away from the MTR's? I thought after 3 sets you were a diehard fan? LOL...
Mike
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It looks like your front metal brake lines are in the original place. Did you add longer flex lines? The RE 3.5" lift recommends straightening out the metal brake line and redrilling the mounting hole.
Why did you go away from the MTR's? I thought after 3 sets you were a diehard fan? LOL...
Mike
Why did you go away from the MTR's? I thought after 3 sets you were a diehard fan? LOL...
Mike
go away from MTRs? I didn't, and wouldn't, do such a thing......what makes you think i did?
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im looking to do the same thing with my RE 3.5, and want about another 1.5'' so what size were the jks acos spacers? and keep the thread up cuz im sure theres plenty of guys that started and around 3.5 and dont want to buy an all new set up for some more clearance - thanks
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 324
Likes: 2
From: Iowa
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
im looking to do the same thing with my RE 3.5, and want about another 1.5'' so what size were the jks acos spacers? and keep the thread up cuz im sure theres plenty of guys that started and around 3.5 and dont want to buy an all new set up for some more clearance - thanks
becasue the axle is shifted to the driver's side, my right tire rubs my discos when i turn left hard. wouldn't be an issue with more backspacing or wheel spacers. Like i said, an adjustable track bar would be great, as long as it wouldn't give me bumpsteer.
My biggest question is whats the best way to get the lift in the back. the blocks are working fine, but i don't like that setup much. does RE sell an add-a-leaf that could crank them up another 1.5"? (i have the full re packs)
i would say for those out there that are somehow getting by with a 3.5 lift and no sye, don't expect to do this and not have vibes!
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