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Adding Contura switch..

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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 02:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 96_xj
I spliced mine into the light right before socket. I have run it like that for over 2 years with no issue. You need some power source going into your "lead"

The way it works is "off" is grounded so no light is produced.

then "on" is connecting the "lead" whatever it may be(in my case fogs, or like the ranger station diagram- constant) and the relay. When you turn it on the power from your" lead "goes into the switch and connects to the relay terminal activating the relay, effectively turning your lights on.



You only need about 300 miliamps to activate the terminal. but it will accept more but NO more than 15 amps. So yes you need to splice in a fuse (unless your relay is like mine where it is built into the relay.

If you use a constant power for your "lead" then you need to splice in a fuse the same rating as your switch. Most are 20-30 amps. (the ones i run are 100 amps....)


The wiring of the relay is dead on (per Hella and all relay instructions)

make sure the wiring to the relay is dead on to the diagram. DO NOT CHANGE IT! i will draw up a diagram as to why.

(and make the fuse change for you)

So are you trying to say that the "lead" coming off of the switch needs to go to the lights?
That is not necessary, if so.

In this case, with the Contura switch, all that needs to come off of the switch is a ground, a wire to the relay(85), and power(so that the light on the switch will come on when flipped).

The wire going from the switch to the relay will open up the path from 30 to 87 like you drew up, but there is no reason to run a wire from the switch to the fogs.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 03:11 PM
  #17  
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Heres another diagram showing 85 as the ground, such as the Hella inst guided me. I wont know till sat if i misread the inst..

Wondering why i'm finding conflicting diagrams on the web?

http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-...ive-wiring.htm
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 03:30 PM
  #18  
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My Bosch relays don't care which is ground and which is power. 85, 86, doesn't matter. 12VDC on one, ground on the other, and the relay engages.

Overland, does your switch illuminate when on? Does the relay click when the switch is engaged?

Last edited by hubs97xj; Jun 24, 2010 at 03:49 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 03:31 PM
  #19  
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no, your lead (power source) needs to go into your switch. (top terminal) your wire from your relay needs to go into your middle terminal. and your ground needs to go into your bottom terminal.

That way when you flip the switch to "on" you are connecting your lead(power source) and your relay. That way the power coming from your lead is going into the relay activating the relay and your lights.

When the switch is flipped to "off" you are connecting your ground and your relay. causing the lights to turn off because there is no power.

And i am wiring mine now (going thru a massive rewire of all of my electrical....) i made sure to look at how my relay was set up. It was indeed set up like i drew in the pictures.

Look at the on/off diagrams and see the pink line in the middle and how it is oriented. The diagram you posted you are connecting your load and your ground...

here is my best advice to you:

Wire the switch like i told you. Wire the relay like i told you. Test it out. If nothing happens or you pop a fuse switch the wires/replace the fuse on the relay-test again.
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 03:43 PM
  #20  
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look on the side of your relay. there will markings like i drew below. Follow whatever it says. I added titles to explain what the diagram means.

There will be numbers on yours and just match the numbers to my diagram.
Attached Thumbnails Adding Contura switch..-0624001335.jpg  
Attached Images   
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 03:53 PM
  #21  
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also you can see that my ground terminal is gold instead of silver. The other 3 terminals are silver with ground being gold
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 10:34 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 96_xj
Look at the on/off diagrams and see the pink line in the middle and how it is oriented. The diagram you posted you are connecting your load and your ground...
Its not connecting the load to the ground. Flipping the switch energizes the coil between 85 and 86... resulting in the power coming from 30 to connect to 87, sending power to the lights.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 12:51 AM
  #23  
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And "lead" doesn't mean "power source". A lead is just a piece of wire. Using "lead" to refer to 12V + is sort of confusing

(nm, I'm looking at two different threads).
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 12:55 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by goalieman24
Its not connecting the load to the ground. Flipping the switch energizes the coil between 85 and 86... resulting in the power coming from 30 to connect to 87, sending power to the lights.
That is the way i was taught in my electronics class either way it all works....

Originally Posted by hubs97xj
And "lead" doesn't mean "power source". A lead is just a piece of wire. Using "lead" to refer to 12V + is sort of confusing, and the bits about just stripping wire and wrapping it around bolts... kind of scary. Sorry, hate to dog a guy, but that's just crappy advice.
Never said lead is the power source-as i stated it only takes 300 milliamps to activate the relay.

I also never said to to just strip wire and wrap it around a bolt....

The relays are on terminals and you can just unplug them and arange them how you want.

here is mine that i just (re)wired today


It is not that hard to rearrange the relay in only a couple seconds.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 01:02 AM
  #25  
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You even used "LEAD" in the diagrams to label 12V +. Lead just means a piece of wire. Nothing more. Your pics aren't very clear, your explanations less so, and your fuel pump runs when you turn your roof rack lights on. You shouldn't be giving wiring advice. Sorry, but someone had to say it.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 01:20 AM
  #26  
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@ hubs97xj

PM sent

I am sorry that i could not explain in a "text book style" just trying to do my best to help. Considering i just today wired 3 relays that run my lights and they all work perfectly (minus the fuel pump thing and if you view the thread you will see why it is weird....).

And I have been wiring for years and i have never had an issue (other vehicles or my own)

Last edited by 96_xj; Jun 25, 2010 at 01:40 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 01:41 AM
  #27  
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.

Last edited by 96_xj; Jun 25, 2010 at 11:38 AM.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:32 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 96_xj
Never said lead is the power source-as i stated it only takes 300 milliamps to activate the relay.
ummm...
Originally Posted by 96_xj
no, your lead (power source) needs to go into your switch.

That way when you flip the switch to "on" you are connecting your lead(power source)

And why the need to post all of your pictures?? Pictures of lights and random relays with wires coming into them do nothing but make the thread more of a hassle to navigate and find the correct information.


Edit: Overland, feel free to PM or something if you don't get yours figured out. I have 5 of the same Contura switches, all wired correctly through relays, working great.

Last edited by goalieman24; Jun 25, 2010 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Added something useful
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:58 AM
  #29  
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here is a good diagram (does that work for ya?)




here is the back of the contura switch




i have no problem admitting that i did not explain myself well enough. -guilty. Should have been clearer. Altho, when you catch someone's fault back it up as to why it is faulty. There is no need to point it out and that be the end of it. Point it, correct it so that the OP knows whats up and you show me(or whoever posts the fault) what is wrong and what you did to make it right. I know i do no know everything so i have no problem admitting that i am wrong WHEN it is shown to me what is right.

what i did wrong was i put the Lead as being the power source. Instead of putting the lead is the power source to power the relay. it needs to be a 12 volt supply that you want to trigger the relay-whether it be constant to run the lights manually, of your fogs if you only want to be able to run your lights when the light switch is on, or you high or low beams if you only want to be able to run your lights when your high or low beams is on. Your actual power that will power the lights goes into terminal 30.


So next time you see something wrong correct it, don't bash it.

Last edited by 96_xj; Jun 25, 2010 at 12:31 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2010 | 11:09 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 96_xj

here is the back of the contura switch




i have no problem admitting that i did not explain myself well enough. -guilty. Should have been clearer. Altho, when you catch someone's fault back it up as to why it is faulty. There is no need to point it out and that be the end of it. Point it, correct it so that the OP knows whats up and you show me(or whoever posts the fault) what is wrong and what you did to make it right. I know i do no know everything so i have no problem admitting that i am wrong WHEN it is shown to me what is right.

what i did wrong was i put the Lead as being the power source. Instead of putting the lead is the power source to power the relay. it needs to be a 12 volt supply that you want to trigger the relay-whether it be constant to run the lights manually, of your fogs if you only want to be able to run your lights when the light switch is on, or you high or low beams if you only want to be able to run your lights when your high or low beams is on. Your actual power that will power the lights goes into terminal 30.


So next time you see something wrong correct it, don't bash it.
Actually, my first post I made in this thread was "right," including all of the information on how to wire the Carling switch that you just now posted 2 days later.

Your reading seems to be selective.
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