I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee i ride and a parts jeep 96 Cherokee Country. Ok My ac compressor locked up on the 2000 . it wasnt working and was making funny noise b4 it finely locked up. So i knew the one in the 96 was good so i took the 96 off but the lines attach different on the 2000. where they go in the main back on the 96 and on the top of the 2000. So i changed the back out so i could use my 2000 lines etc. So I put new oil 4 oz. ruffly maybe a little more and it took the oil fine but will not take the freon. I paid a guy 25 bucks to have it vacuumed and had no leaks but it still wont take freon. could a bad AC pressure switch cause it not to take freon or maybe the condenser is stopped up when the compressor locked up and iit got metal in the condenser and stopped it from taking freon or what... Im at a lost and dont have much money...but I need my ac bad. i have a hard time breathing when i get really hot... So all help appreciated...

 

How are you charging in the refrigerant? Are you using a gauge set? What do the gauges show?

If the system is in vacuum some should be pulled in from the can even without the compressor running. I always heat the cans, using a coffee can filled with water, heated on a hot plate to assist in pushing the refrigerant out. (The water should be hot but not boiling.) Remember your basic physics - as refrigerant leaves the can, it cools, lowering the gas pressure and making it more difficult to continue emptying the can. Heating it increases the gas pressure to assist in charging the AC system.

Unfortunately when a compressor locks up it usually sends shards of metal throughout the AC system which then needs to be flushed out. R134 systems use a parallel-flow condenser which cannot be successfully flushed, it needs to be replaced. Ditto for the evaporator if it is parallel-flow. Also the drier cannot be flushed, it needs to be replaced. Always best to disconnect the compressor immediately if it gets noisy, before it self-destructs.

 

What product are you using?

 

I think it was just the clutch that locked up. I took it apart and i didnt see anything broken inside so i dont think its got shar/metal shaving blocking things off but who knows. Its like its completely blocked off, Will not take any freon at all...I took the hi side pressure switch off the canister/ drier /acumlater and pushed the valve down while straight wired the clutch while attempting to add freon and it blew off one of the lines that connects to the condenser. its the line that has the orfice tube in it, I just put 2 new o-rings on it and put it back together. I prob got air back into the system now didnt i. ?

 

If it was just the compressor clutch that failed then you should be OK as far as having to worry about metal pieces in the system. (Good thing as that makes a real mess of things!)

It sounds to me like there is some issue caused by swapping the back of the compressor. You did get air back in the system unfortunately. It will have to be evacuated again. If you're going to be working on AC you really should have a vacuum pump, as well as a gauge set. Harbor Freight sells a pump for under $100 that works well for home use though it probably would not last long being used constantly in a shop environment:

https://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm...ump-98076.html

(With one of their 20% off coupons that makes the pump about $76.)

 

Is the compressor clutch cycling at all when you're trying to add the refrigerant ?? Sometimes you need to jump the low pressure switch to start the process...

 

ok i borrowed a meter, with the meter set on 20 v with the key on ac controls on fan on ac unplugged With black lead on neg post and red on the compressor ac plug reads 0.01 on ground wire coming right off the compressor reads 0.01. However when i manually kick the clutch in from a hot wire on the compressor to the hot battery post i then get 12.5 6 7 volts etc when running hooked up the same way i get 13.4 5 volts from the plug and . ground while running 0.02 The voltage from wiring harness wire/plug i get 0.06 running . Update With motor off key off with neg battery term hooked up i get 0.00 at the ac plug and 0.00 at the ground on the compressor... ok when i unhook the neg cable/post i get a reading of 12.21 an rising on ac plug and 12 .13 an rising on the ground coming off the compressor. Term hooked up no reading. Term unhooked and with my black lead directly on the neg post of the battery i then get a reading.

 

ok i borrowed a meter with the meter set on 20 v with the key on ac controls on fan on ac unplugged With black lead on neg post and red on the compressor ac plug reads 0.01 on ground wire coming right off the compressor reads 0.01. However when i manually kick the clutch in from a hot wire on the compressor to the hot battery post i then get 12.5 6 7 volts etc when running hooked up the same way i get 13.4 5 volts from the plug and . ground while running 0.02 The voltage from wiring harness wire/plug i get 0.06 running . Update With motor off key off with neg battery term hooked up i get 0.00 at the ac plug and 0.00 at the ground on the compressor... ok when i unhook the neg cable/post i get a reading of 12.21 an rising on ac plug and 12 .13 an rising on the ground coming off the compressor. Terminal hooked up no reading. Term unhooked and with my black lead directly on the neg post of the battery i then get a reading.

 

ok what ive found out so far...I show power on both wires on the compressor. even if its unplugged. show no power on the wire coming from the wiring harness. I cant afford those gages i need so i borrowed a volt meter, with the meter set on 20 v with the key on ac controls on fan on ac unplugged With black lead on neg post and red on the compressor ac plug reads 0.01 on ground wire coming right off the compressor reads 0.01. However when i manually kick the clutch in from a hot wire on the compressor to the hot battery post i then get 12.5 6 7 volts etc when running hooked up the same way i get 13.4 5 volts from the plug and . ground while running 0.02 The voltage from wiring harness wire/plug i get 0.06 running . Update With motor off key off with neg battery term hooked up i get 0.00 at the ac plug and 0.00 at the ground on the compressor... ok when i unhook the neg cable/post i get a reading of 12.21 an rising on ac plug and 12 .13 an rising on the ground coming off the compressor. Terminal hooked up no reading. Term unhooked and with my black lead directly on the neg post of the battery i then get a reading.

 

no, only way it will cycle is run a wire from the hot wire coming from the compressor to the hot post . then it will cycle. If i try to bridge it from the low side switch it will blow the big 20 amp fuse. same thing from the relay. This is what ive have found out so far... i borrowed a meter with the meter set on 20 v with the key on ac controls on fan on ac unplugged With black lead on neg post and red on the compressor ac plug reads 0.01 on ground wire coming right off the compressor reads 0.01. However when i manually kick the clutch in from a hot wire on the compressor to the hot battery post i then get 12.5 6 7 volts etc when running hooked up the same way i get 13.4 5 volts from the plug and . ground while running 0.02 The voltage from wiring harness wire/plug i get 0.06 running . Update With motor off key off with neg battery term hooked up i get 0.00 at the ac plug and 0.00 at the ground on the compressor... ok when i unhook the neg cable/post i get a reading of 12.21 an rising on ac plug and 12 .13 an rising on the ground coming off the compressor. Terminal hooked up no reading. Terminal unhooked and with my black lead directly on the neg post of the battery i then get a reading. I get the same reading even when the ac is not pluged up into the wire coming from the wiring harness.

 

ok i borrowed a meter with the meter set on 20 v with the key on ac controls on fan on ac unplugged With black lead on neg post and red on the compressor ac plug reads 0.01 on ground wire coming right off the compressor reads 0.01. However when i manually kick the clutch in from a hot wire on the compressor to the hot battery post i then get 12.5 6 7 volts etc when running hooked up the same way i get 13.4 5 volts from the plug and . ground while running 0.02 The voltage from wiring harness wire/plug i get 0.06 running . Update With motor off key off with neg battery term hooked up i get 0.00 at the ac plug and 0.00 at the ground on the compressor... ok when i unhook the neg cable/post i get a reading of 12.21 an rising on ac plug and 12 .13 an rising on the ground coming off the compressor. Terminal hooked no reading. Terminal unhooked and with my black lead directly on the neg post of the battery i then get a reading.

 

If the a/c clutch is drawing 20-amps, something is wrong with the clutch.

 

Dude, you need to borrow the gauge set and a vacuum pump so you can vacuum the system, check that it holds vacuum and then charge it properly.

Also, O.P., please clarify, you are NOT getting 20v at the clutch, the 20v is the SETTING you're using on the multi-meter, right?

 

No im getting 0.00 volts on the hot wire coming from the coil/clutch and 0.00 coming from the ground wire coming off the compressor. Yes with test light i show power on both hot and ground wire on the compressor. Even when the ac is unplpluged from the wiring harness wire/plug. I did have it vacuum and it had no leaks but still would not take freon. However ig i unhook the neg battery post and test with the lead directly on the neg post i get 12.plus volts on bot wires hot and ground/ Hook the terminal back up, no volts.

 

Are you using a proper guage set? What pressures are you seeing on low and high side while trying to charge? If they're reasonable then check the hi and low pressure cutoff switches - unplug them and check across them with the meter on the resistance/ohms/Ω scale. If forcing the compressor to run and it blew a line off, I'd say you've got a plugged up orifice. (there's a reason why that high pressure cutoff is there, btw, as it can overpressurize and blow things up).