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99 xj burns a bunch of oil!!!

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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:09 PM
  #1  
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From: Pittsburgh
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L
Default 99 xj burns a bunch of oil!!!

My question is what would cause a 4.0 liter to burn 2 quarts of oil in about 750 miles. Should I run some sea foam threw it and see what happens or will I need to replace a valve or something along those lines. Oh and by the way there is not a drop of oil on the ground so it can't just be a leak
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:13 PM
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From: Fauquier County, Virginia
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Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
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There is no real "fix-it-all" you can pour into your engine to stop oil burning. It is caused by leaking piston rings and valve seals. However, you can try running a slightly thicker wieght oil, or I have had descent results with Restore (and no to those who bash the usage of an additive, nothing clogged, pressure remained fine, mpg stayed the same, and consumption went down slightly).

So, try that first, and if it doesn't ease down a little, either just deal with it or it's time for a rebuild.

Edit: Also check and make sure your CCV lines are clear. If the rear line clogs, it will push a surprising amount of oil through the front tube into the air filter.
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:28 PM
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Is there anyway to diagnose it without having to tear down the head?
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:43 PM
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From: Flint/Asheville
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Usually if the vehicle sits for a while, like a few days, and smokes real bad at startup then thats valve seals. Smoking during hard acceleration is worn rings. This is a quick check to get a better idea. You can also do a compression check.

How many miles are on your motor?
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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121,000 miles
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Old May 9, 2011 | 09:51 PM
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From: Flint/Asheville
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Make sure the CCV lines are clear and do a compression check
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Old May 10, 2011 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by TheJerm
Make sure the CCV lines are clear and do a compression check
Good advice.

CCV lines (coming and going from the valve cover) need to be clear. Are you getting any oil in your air filter box?

Performing a compression test is a must for you. It is a great "snapshot in time" of the internal condition of your engine.

Easy to do, and if you don't have a gauge, many parts stores will rent you this tool.

Perform both a dry and wet compression test to help you diagnose. SEARCH and you will find lots of articles on how to and the value of a compression test.

The compression spec. for the Jeep 4.0 is 120-150 psi, with no more than a 30 psi variation between cylinders.

Good luck!
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Old May 10, 2011 | 08:29 AM
  #8  
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Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Newb here ~ 1st post~ ....How do you remove the CCV? ( front and Back)
I just dont want to break them

pd
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Old May 10, 2011 | 12:53 PM
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i have the same exact question?
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Old May 10, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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actually i think i just thought of what it is. is it the line that goes from the air box to the top of valve cover or is it something else?
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Old May 10, 2011 | 06:05 PM
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From: Apollo, PA
Year: 1996
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I have also used Restore and I believe it really helps. I have also used a product I believe called No Leak No smoke. Its a small clear bottle. Really thick. Thicker then Restore. I had an old car and it leaked a little oil and burned a little oil. Used the No Leak No Smoke ONE time and it helped. Stopped leaking almost all together. It did seem to help the burning of the oil too. Just noticed less smoke over time. And it was very thick but did not do a thing to my motor. In fact I sold the car with 250k on it and it was running super. so hope this helps. Its worth a try...
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