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98xj front hub and axle joint

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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #1  
salukispeed's Avatar
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From: Oak Forest Illinois
Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0L Power tec
Default 98xj front hub and axle joint

My stock 98 XJ is due for front axle joints. I will likely replace the hubs at the same time as they will be off. Are there any pitfalls to this job. I have done many of the older style 1977-1985 with the bearings in the wheel Is there any replacment hubs or joints recomended or to be avoided. I looked in the Rock Auto site to start with.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 11:35 AM
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Get some good timken bearings from rock auto. It's straight forward. You will need a 12 point 13mm socket and a 36mm socket
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 02:53 PM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Napa sell 3 year guarantee one,every couple years take them back get new ones cant go wrong .Im on my 4th set...
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Get some good timken bearings from rock auto. It's straight forward. You will need a 12 point 13mm socket and a 36mm socket

1/2 inch drive 13mm, ^

I bend my 6"-3/8 extension every time I pop the hub off with the power steering. Anyway that works to push it off after the three 12 point bolts are off.
Attached Thumbnails 98xj front hub and axle joint-101_9758.jpg  
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 11:42 AM
  #5  
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Looks like the 3 very rusty 12 point bolts are going to be the first hurdel to get over. Does anyone stock new ones besides the stealer/dealer. Also replace "U" joint with greasable or non greasable?? ( stock 235 15 tires )
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 02:30 PM
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Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone

1/2 inch drive 13mm, ^

I bend my 6"-3/8 extension every time I pop the hub off with the power steering. Anyway that works to push it off after the three 12 point bolts are off.
Nice trick. Spray the hell out off the bolts ahead of time. You should be able to reuse the bolts, just clean up the threads with a wire wheel
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 03:04 PM
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I'm doing the same job next weekend. Two new hubs and u-joints. I've never done it before so I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out for you.

Post up any tips of tricks you discover as you do this job as mine are 160K of northern rusted in.
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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From: Rochester
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by xjsnake
I'm doing the same job next weekend. Two new hubs and u-joints. I've never done it before so I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out for you.

Post up any tips of tricks you discover as you do this job as mine are 160K of northern rusted in.
Mine were rusted bad from the ny salt. Use the extension trick and save yourself the trouble of beating the old hubs out. Just spray spray spray
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #9  
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Thanks for the help . I will tackle this before the fall gets here.
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Old Sep 11, 2013 | 04:40 PM
  #10  
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Year: 1994
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WORD TO THE WISE: You may as well plan on pulling the front diff cover and replace the inner axle seals as well. What happens 99% of the time is when you slide you axles back in after changing joints you will push the dirt & rust in the axle tube into the seal and it will start leaking by the next day. Do it once and do it right. Pull the carrier, remove the old inner seals & clean the axle tubes out so they are free of any debris. Install new seals, install carrier, seal cover, install axles & hubs, & fill front diff. Done.

Miles
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 09:49 AM
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From: Nashville, TN
Year: 1997, 1993
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I was able to get mine off just fine on Friday with a chisel and a big hammer. Didn't take a ton of work to get the rusty hubs out but all of the 12pt bolts required significant time with the torch to get them out without breaking them.

Axle shaft U joints on the other had were a *****. I'm thinking I'll just pull my drive shafts and have the joints swapped at a shop since they look even worse than the axle joints.

Needless to say all of the new parts were installed with liberal amounts of antiseize...
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