Hello.

I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee. I am having problems with the passenger door power window. I cannot get it to operate, although sometimes it will go down, but not up. I have tried replacing the wiring harness in the door with no luck, and the door switch. All other windows work fine. I also have connected a battery directly to the motor, so I know it works in both directions. I was wondering if anyone might have encountered this specific problem before and have any suggestions. Also, there are 7 wires that go to the door switch. Is there a schematic that I can trace those wires?

Thanks!
Joe

 

Notorious jeep wiring... Could Be the master window switch in drivers door is shorted and not letting signal to pass door. Though, generally a master window switch will cause all pass doors switches to not work. Try looking down behind the kick panel at your feet. Behind it is a harness that can be bridged with a paperclip (I ended up splicing in and soldering a wire in place) to bypass window switch. Try this and if window works, you've got your ghetto fix!? Good luck. Btw- bridging the wires is totally safe!!
Welcome to CF, btw!

 

VtJeep

I am a little confused which harness you are talking about at the kick plate on the floor. There are 4 connectors that come from the wiring harness from the door to the kick plate connectors. Which wires are you suggesting to short? There was a jpg in your email reply but I wasn't sure if you were including an image or if it was as ad jpg as I couldnt see it..

Thanks!

 

I wonder if it could be the regulator and not an electrical problem?

Edit: I reread your post. When you put power to the motor directly, is it correct that the window itself did go up and down?

 

I have the same problem on my 99 and I have been tring for months to figure it out, I tried jumping the wires by the kick plate and everything. I've just dealt with it for now until I get some ideas

 

Sorry image didn't work, I'll post a link to the pic instead! All you need to get to is the kick panel that covers over basically where your hood pull is. Its on outter wall, right by where your left foot sits. It's a smaller panel, kinda rounded to fit into door sill. If you want a pic, I'll take one on my jeep (hopefully you will be able to see it ) either way, hope this link works!

 

And if that didnt do it...
To to google
Type this- site cherokeeforum.com pictures of window switch bypass
Click images option, and voila- first image!

 

Well I was able to see the picture, and I shorted the two wires with a paper clip and is disabled the lock switch. Unfortunately, it did not fix my problem. Using the passenger door switch, I can roll the window down but not up.

The driver side door button for the passenger window does not roll the window up or down. The other 3 buttons on the driver side all work.

If I push the driver door window lock button, I then cannot use the passenger side button to any longer roll the window down. So it seems the lock button functions to some extent.

Also, if I disconnect all 3 cables at the kick plate on the driver side, and then try the passenger side power window button, the window also no longer rolls down. So it seems power comes from the driver side somehow? Is there a specific wire that provides current for rolling window up?

Thanks

 

Could just be the master window switch is done for. New they an run up to 140ish. Hit the JY and see if you can score one cheap?

 

I just went through all of this today for exactly the same problem. Window works when hot wired; has a new pass. door window switch, and new regulator and motor in that window. Took apart the drivers master switch and cleaned all contacts. Still doing the same thing. You really think a new master switch is the fix? I think amazon has 'em cheap...

 

I hit the JK late in the day and tried replacing the driver door switch and passenger switch modules and no luck. The only thing I still have left to try that is easy is the driver side wiring harness from the door to the kick plate..I can try that and see...and I did replace the entire passenger regulator as the main problem was a broken regulator cable, but then found the wiring issue...

is there any info that shows what the inidividual 7 wires going to the passsenger side switch are? Or an overall wiring diagram for the power windows?

 

i have the same exact problem on my 98 classic. drivers door will not operate the passenger front at all. passenger side switch will make window go down, but not up. all others work fine from both locations. hope somebody's got the answer!

 

Pull out your test light or multimeter. First off see if you are getting current up & down at the motor itself. Is no then move to switch on the door and check the same thing. Then check at the pass. switch for current coming both up & down from the drivers switch. Then finally at the drivers switch itself Check both directions as well. Once you find the current flowing correctly then you can eliminate anything before that point. I have a feeling you have a wire broke somewhere between the drivers door and the pass door.

 

I seriously doubt it's the regulator.

I am currently having this same problem with my rear pass side window.

It will roll down, but not up, with either the button on the door or the master switch button.

If I take off the rear pass. door panel and unplug the connector that connects the switch to the regulator, then insert two pieces of wire to CROSS that connection (instead of "A to A" or "B to B", it would be "A to B" and "B to A"), the window will roll UP when I press down on the switch.

This means that it is NOT the regulator. The regulator functions correctly, it's the signal being sent from the switches causing the problem.

You might think it's way too coincidental for BOTH switches to fail at the same time.

Well, I doubt it's the switches, either. I almost guarantee it's in the wiring.

See, let's say you held the rear pass. door switch up, and master switch down - the window will roll down, because the master switch has ultimate control of the circuit.

SO, if there's a problem with the master switch, or the master switch wiring, that WILL affect other switches.

The paper clip trick works when the LOCK OUT button fails, but that will not solve the problem you are having.

Carefully inspect the wiring that leads from the driver's door master switch, through the door hinge area, and into the driver's foot well.

That wiring harness is notorious for failing because the wires break after so many times of being bent with the door opening and closing.

I am willing to bet that's where the problem is.

 

Do you mean the upper 2 or the separate 2 of the connector?
I don’t want to fry anything!,

Thanks for all Your info...it’s valuable!!