Brehende94

I checked to make sure its getting gas, getting air, and getting spark. When its off my battery reads 12.4 when it's on it reads 14.2. I took the terminals off while running and it still ran. It will pop start every time I try it but won't always start when I turn it over by key and it acts like it drains my battery but it still reads 12. All my grounds are good(I think) I'm just not sure where to go from here. Sensor maybe? Hoping someone else has had this problem... I also just did a full tune up/ oil change and new coil about 2 weeks ago.

Fasts96xj

If its an automatic transmission, put it in Neutral and try to start it. Make sure you depress the brake pedal while trying.


IF it is 'occasionally' not starting in PARK unless you wiggle, press forward, press down on shifter, ... and won't start in NEUTRAL, you may have the NSS problem. Neutral Safety Switch on side of auto trans can be removed and cleaned rather than replaced (big $$$), fairly easily.


Check that, and let me know what you find.


Fasts96xj

tjwalker

First of all, you should NEVER do this on a modern vehicle. That trick became obsolete once vehicles went to modern solid state electronics. Here is a link to an article that explains why you shouldn't do this.

http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_...ct_battery.htm

The risk is that it could toast both your alternator and or your computer. Certainly doesn't always do this, but could. You my friend, got lucky. You can (and did) do a quick and dirty test on your charging system with an alternator. That's enough unless you need to have your alternator tested further.

As for your symptoms, start with basics. Remove and clean the battery cables. While the cables are off, take the battery into the local parts store and ask for them to "load test" your battery. Testing is always free. Load testing is the only accurate way to determine battery condition and you have to verify this before moving onto more complex possibilities.

As for grounds, the only way to attack them is to "freshen them". You can't tell a thing by looking at them. Remove them, clean them until shiny, reattach.

Good luck and keep us updated!

Brehende94

Its not my battery had that tested awhile ago. I still haven't figured it out and my check engine light came on yesterday I shut if off and turned it back on and it went away. And my jeep is a 5 speed. I had that shifter problem with my old jeep tho. I cleaned the terminals all that looks good. I have a parts jeep that ran when I parked it. Think I'm going to start replacing the sensors till I figure out which one it is.

tjwalker

If your check engine light came on, you now have a "stored code" in the computer even if the check engine light is currently off.

You gotta retrieve that code for clues/guidance. Use the technology provided to you by your Jeep.

Here's how to retrieve codes for the 91-95 XJ. Easy to do. Post the EXACT code here for comment.
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Retrieving OBD codes on the Jeep Cherokee (XJ) OBD1 Models: 1991-1995

1) Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift leverthrough all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on and then off
(if equipped).

2) Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit
fault codes as displayed by flashing MIL.

3) For example, fault code 23 is displayed as flash, flash, 4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause,
other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. When MIL begins to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. Start over if count is
lost.

NOTE: A "5-5" will always occur to signal the end of the sequence. Some will flash the "1-2" code indicating a recent battery disconnect even if you haven't done it. Ignore these two codes, and mark down all others.