92 XJ jerking/rough idle
#1
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Location: Tallahassee, Fl
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.8
92 XJ jerking/rough idle
Hey all, I have researched this fairly extensively and think I have an idea of whats wrong, just want to see if anyone else has ideas.
The yeep is idling roughly, but its intermittent. It will basically idle fine, but it also will make a muffled sound of some sort and the RPM's will fluctuate slightly. On takeoff, it will jerk and hesitate a little bit, but that will go away once its rolling. In 4th gear, when the RPM's are low, it will jerk a little bit and RPM's will fluctuate a little bit.
I have replaced the exhaust system (no leaks), the O2 sensor and TPS within a couple weeks.
Within the last 6 months, I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, cleaned the injectors, throttle body, manifold gasket and valve cover gasket.
I was thinking possibly the CPS or IAC needs replacing, but I'm not sure.
Also the distributor is making a clicking sound sometimes, but I looked at it and the rotor looks ok.
Any thoughts?
The yeep is idling roughly, but its intermittent. It will basically idle fine, but it also will make a muffled sound of some sort and the RPM's will fluctuate slightly. On takeoff, it will jerk and hesitate a little bit, but that will go away once its rolling. In 4th gear, when the RPM's are low, it will jerk a little bit and RPM's will fluctuate a little bit.
I have replaced the exhaust system (no leaks), the O2 sensor and TPS within a couple weeks.
Within the last 6 months, I have replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, cleaned the injectors, throttle body, manifold gasket and valve cover gasket.
I was thinking possibly the CPS or IAC needs replacing, but I'm not sure.
Also the distributor is making a clicking sound sometimes, but I looked at it and the rotor looks ok.
Any thoughts?
#2
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Howdy. Just on GP you might want to check your sensor ground circuit. In Cruisers stuff in my sig there is stuff close enough for yours I believe.
(you look for less than an ohm from the TPS, (or I suppose MAP also), ground terminal, to battery Neg.)
Also allot of auto parts stores will check for codes free. Also you can try the "Key trick" Below;
OBD1 Models: 1991-1995
1) Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever
through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on and then off
(if equipped).
2) Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn
ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit
fault codes as displayed by flashing MIL.
3) For example, fault code 23 is displayed as flash, flash,
4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause,
other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. When MIL begins
to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. Start over if count is
lost. Code 55 indicates end of fault code display.
(you look for less than an ohm from the TPS, (or I suppose MAP also), ground terminal, to battery Neg.)
Also allot of auto parts stores will check for codes free. Also you can try the "Key trick" Below;
OBD1 Models: 1991-1995
1) Start engine (if possible). Move transmission shift lever
through all positions, ending in Park. Turn A/C switch on and then off
(if equipped).
2) Turn engine off. Without starting engine again, turn
ignition on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Record 2-digit
fault codes as displayed by flashing MIL.
3) For example, fault code 23 is displayed as flash, flash,
4-second pause, flash, flash, flash. After a slightly longer pause,
other codes stored are displayed in numerical order. When MIL begins
to flash fault codes, it cannot be stopped. Start over if count is
lost. Code 55 indicates end of fault code display.
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