I have said the. Hell with it and picked up a 92. Engine. High miles 200,000 for 75$ I'm putting. It in a 88 my motor still runs fine just smokes really. Bad any instructions. Would be great. That you

 

Some electrical stuff has to be changed.

 

I'm listening I think. Flywheel. Has to be swapped. Coolant temp sensor. Is in a different. Location. Etc. Not sure about the rest

 

How many times and in how many threads do I have to post this for you? This will be the third time. .



Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
　
Revised 07/24/2012
　

 

OK guys swapped the head

 

ok i just did a h.o head swap onto a renix block all was well with old head but the valves stuck open causing me to suck oil into the combustion chamber thus causing hellatious smoke bought a new exhaust manifold to the old one fell apart literrally


ok so to the issue my idle is around 300 rpms rpugh idle it has poor acceleration which it wasnt like this before the swap my dip**** brother messed with the vac lines and etc so idk if any of that is culprit i hear no leaks and when it gets to 2000rpms the whole truck vibes any help or advice is better than nun