trust me i had the same problem...changed the cps...did no good....you need 2 put a jumper wire in the end of the temp sensor plug...jumping the 2 holes 2gether and it will start and run great...that will tell you if its the temp sensor...it can affect gas and starting....specially after its been ran it will be hard 2 start...right?....try that...it worked 4 mine.....gl...

 

my sensor was reading -30 degrees causing the cpu to dump gas flooding my vehicle out....trust me close the loop and it will run!!

 

First a couple things on my older Renix system. Holding it floored, cranking it cuts off fuel from the injectors. This should make it start, if flooding is the issue. Yours might be the same. Also mine has/uses both engine coolant and incoming air temp sensors to help calculate fuel mix. I believe ether could make it rich. (also they both use the same test, resistance, values).

On YOUR CPS, I recently found this link on testing the later, OBD II CPS, which may well apply to yours. I haven't tried it, don't know anyone who has. It looks like he's verifying 1/2 a volt, (aka.5v or 500 Mil.Volts), presumably AC, (with a true RMS meter), (back-probing, with it connected), at his third (Red) wire. (not the ground, and not the 5V-DC sensor feed). I don't know what % difference I would expect from my "cheap-o-meter", as opposed to the true RMS, but it might not be much. http://www.cherokeetech.com/VBull/sh...agnosis-Videos

 

Well luckily the CPS has a lifetime warranty so I'm not too worried. Off to pick up my new temp sensor now. And for the record I nabbed a multimeter at work and searched for what it's resistance is supposed to be. It's off. So that should fix it. I'll keep an eye out for the CPS but I don't think it's an issue. Also I've been managing to get it to start and run. I have a few dirty tricks, such as your jumper. I figured out the right mishmash of lockwire to convince it of normal operating.

 

how did you do that? thicker wire......and was my info usefull.....hope so.....i want 2 make mine run without the senor at normal temp......so howz it done

 

The info helped. Pretty much I played around with braiding .020, .032, .040, and break away wire with the help of an avionics guy until we got it to work right. Wanted to get it as close as possible to the normal operating temp. Now I've got the new one in and I'll just have to wait and see. The fault was intermittent to begin with so I'll have to keep an eye on it.