Let's sum this up. anothadaybowfadeezin starts numerous threads describing his engine problems. Everyone tells him his engine is shot and to get a good used one. He doesn't listen to anyone, gets in over his head on a hokey overhaul without proper tools and technical info, spend $3000 versus $500, and we're all somehow contributing to his ignorance and lack of paying attention and should feel sorry for him.

 

im curious how do you spend 3000 dollars on swapping a head and putting new main and rod bearings in and also piston rings??? put a nice crate stroker in for that....

 

You must be one of these:

 

what the hell is that about cruiser??? if that is directed toward me then please explain. i actually agree with you about this anothadayridin and what ever his other screen name is... any probelm pointing out that its basically impossible to spend 3000 dollars rebuilding a 4.0.

 

You must be one of those to spend $3000 doing what anothadayridin/bowfadeez did. The direct result of not listening to sound advice. Not directed at you in any way. And yes, I feel the dollar amount is exaggerated also.

 

umm... i didnt say i spent 3000 dollars. mine dropped oil pressure. changed the sending unit, still low oil pressure by manual gauge, pulled the pan changed oil pump, better but still low oil pressure, pulled the pan found main and rods worn. what did i do; i changed the engine with a used one, also changed the transmission due too weird shifts and a leaking front pump seal. cost me a total of 750 dollars.

so please reread my post

 

I'm saying you have to be anothadayridin to spend $3000 doing what HE did. You did the right thing.

 

just didnt understand the whole askhole comment.

 

Directed at the guy who asked all the questions and then did the opposite and then whines cuz nothing worked out. NOT AT YOU. You were asking how it could happen. I was saying a guy would have to do what anothaday did to have it happen to him.

 

ok the trooper is back picked up a second engine out of a 95 wrangler was.totaled had 70,000 on the odometer but it happened to have a rebuilt engine was told buy owner was drivin 15000 on the engine before the accident i gave 600 for the engine so hopefully within this week i can get it in the heep all compression readings were 134 lbs accept 5 which was 127

cruiser i will ask u are the same steps needed to do this swap all info will be appriciated

 

This will be my 4th time posting it for you, but here it is. I remember you saying this would be too much trouble when I suggested it about 653 posts ago................so you embarked on a simpler route
Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap

This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.

The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.

Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.

You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.

You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.

The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.

As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.

　

Revised 07/24/2012

　

 

cruiser i didnt ask u to repost i just asked if the same steps bc this motor is quite different




remember it came out of a wrangler

 

Yes. They ARE different. That's why I did the instructions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


XJ Cherokee and ZJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

2000+ TJ Wrangler and WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0L engine blocks interchange.

XJ/ZJ blocks and 2000+ TJ/WJ blocks do not interchange without significant modifications. (1997-1999 4.0L TJ Wrangler blocks will interchange in XJ/ZJ and visa-versa).

TJ/WJ 4.0L Engine blocks underwent clean sheet design changes effective in the 1999 WJ Grand and 2000 TJ Wrangler. These blocks are not interchangeable with XJ/ZJ engine blocks. The reason is motor mount bolt holes and belt driven accessory mounting bolt holes are in different locations, or not present at all, TJ/WJ vs. XJ/ZJ.

XJ: "Regular" (not Grand) Cherokees 84-01
ZJ: Grand Cherokee 93-98 (Gen1)
WJ: Grand Cherokee 99-04 (Gen2)
TJ: Wrangler 97-06 (Gen2)

 

95 yj wrangler 4.0

 

i gotta get a better look but i think theres a pilot bearing