What I was getting at earlier is that a guy posted some lifters had pumped up too high. (after push-rods being off/bent). Idk, but easy enough to test. Rotate the engine till the rotor is on #4, then see that the push-rods on #4 can be turned. (not tight).

 

As in when the exhaust or intake valve should be fully opened if the rod still has play in it?

 

No. On TDC on compression both valves should be closed. At that point, (or anywhere near it), the push-rod should not have any pressure on it. You should be able to spin it by hand. If it's true a lifter can get pumped up too high it might have pressure and be holding the valve open when it shouldn't.

 

Just having the rotor pointing at say, the #4 terminal should be close enough to check that the pushrods on #4 are not tight and holding the valve open. If it will start and run, and if that were the issue they should bleed down after a bit.

 

Fair enough. I will check tomorrow before the tear down. Right now I'm considering swapping in a 95 head with 99 manifolds...power increases, ya know? ;D

 

Yea, not allot though. IIRC Cruiser thought 10% was a myth, but you would need to ask him. I almost never use all the throttle I have, at 280K that doesn't seem wise.

 

Aren't piston rings supposed to be one piece? #4 rings are split

 

All piston rings are split. How else would they fit over the piston to drop into the groove?
Unless you mean they are split into 2 separate halves, then no, they at busted and need to be replaced.

 

Photos please.

 

Ok, to clarify, they were split as in 2 separate pieces, both the upper and lower ring. I'll get pics up when I get to her

 

Ok, so here's the closing and opening.

In closing, the rings were broke. Not horribly, but they were split almost exactly 180 degrees from the opening that is meant to be there for installation. Replaced with a known good and inspected piston, motor is buttoned up and running like a champ.

In opening, I now have an interesting issue. I cleaned the manifold and throttle body extensively while the head was off. Lots of crud built up in there. Anyways, upon first firing, it had a high idle around 1600 rpm. I put the map tube in the correct hole, normal idle. But then, I was getting a very uneasy idle, and under light acceleration, the jeep feels like it's not firing on all cylinders, stumbles, catches, stumbles again....unless you give it more gas. The best way I can describe it is if you were giving it just enough throttle to maintain speed, it will stumble. If you are accelerating, it's fine. I'm personally thinking I may need to 're adjust the tps. Thoughts?

 

Yes, readjust the TPS on the Engine side.

 

Adjust on the ending side? As in back probe the motor harness side? I have the automatic style tps, and I've read your adjustment at least 3 or 4 times, so I should be measuring the flat 3 connector, right?

 

Yea, I believe the engine side is the flat one. It's in his tips.

 

Yes, flat.