paigenichole

my boyfriend has a lifted '89 xj (I have an '85, but we'll get to that another time).. anyways, he's had it since Aug./Sept. '11 and it's been quite the rig.







after numerous overheating issues, 4 reservoirs, 5+ thermostats, new water pump, flopping her upside down. (lol), transmission swap, sitting for about 6 months, motor swap, new radiator, headlights, tranny line, fuel pump, fuel line, battery, alternator, newish passenger door (windows broke), she's finally back on the road and ready to give hell. she ran fine for the last two weeks after getting the motor swap, but now, she's having some wiring issues. this is what's going on:

- brights flicker then shut off completely ,
- front hazards don't blink in sync,
- the stereo started shutting off when we turned the lights on. after a few days, it stopped. worked properly, but now it quit working (the stereo itself is fine, but it has been taken out for now.),
- couple nights ago the headlights didn't work at all. now, they're magically working again.. as long as the brights aren't on.
- and something's drawing power from the battery (I assume) because the battery is always warm and it needs to be jumped when started now. brand spanking new alternator was put in within the last three weeks.

I love this rig, but recently its just been one thing after another, and it's driving me INSANE. help is much appreciated!

Radi

You can disconnect the negative battery lead overnight and see if it starts, that'll kill any power drain. I bet the battery is shot though. Running warm + won't hold a charge usually means shorted cells. Most auto parts places can load test them.

You might find and use Cruiser's ground and C101 refreshing writeups, sounds like the XJ has some ground issues too. Once that is done you can assess the condition of the headlight and dimmer switches if the lighting problems continue.

Pro tip: Park the XJ right side-up.

PNWjeeper

The blinkers don't go blink in sync it should be front on then side marker on front on etc..

For the headlights I would start with replacing the headlight switch, mine used to blink on and off after like 3 mins after turning them on (and I get off work around midnight) I replaced the switch and haven't had a problem since.

And yeah look for cruiser54 he has tons of write ups for the renix era jeeps (84-90) pm him if you need to he will treat you right.

kennzz05

grounds, grounds grounds
clean all the grounds read post #2 in the link below on the battery draw issue start pulling and reinstalling fuses till you get one that sparks when you put it back in, that will be the source of the draw (engine off)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/a...-help-1325493/

cruiser54

Headlight switch is probably on it's way out. Personally, I would replace it and purchase a headlight upgrade harness so the load will be taken off that switch in the future. Your headlights will be 30% or more brighter, too.

There is a 10 pin connector in front of the air cleaner and behind the driver's headlight that gets corroded. All the wires for your front lighting system run through it. Unplug it and clean it.

cruiser54

That said, here's what every rEnix Jeep owner needs to do to save themselves future hassles.

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
　
　
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
　
Revised 11-28-2011



I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.
ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix era Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.
Revised 07/17/2012

paigenichole

sorry for the late replies guys, things have been hectic lately.

so after a new battery, another alternator (it crapped out after two weeks), and ignition switch tumbler, and module pieces, things are back in working order.

except for the highbeams randomly shutting off.. we get lucky, one of the jeeps at a junkyard we go to had a brand new headlight switch on it.. do we just gotta put it in. if that doesn't solve it, we'll move onto cleaning every electrical connection like Cruiser54 mentioned. I appreciate the feedback!

paigenichole

yes, yes, definitely a must do from now on! ;D