Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
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89 starts hesitating at speed 65mph only

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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 08:31 PM
  #16  
bullheimer's Avatar
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From: NW WA
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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yeah, i don't think the gas filter will change anything, altho a $15 part that probably needs changing anyway. my jeep will run great if, when lurching, i give it the gas, ergo and to-wit, no fuel flow problems. so yes, i think the dizzy has gotten chewed up myself. i guess i should just spend the $45 the junk yard wants for a used one.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 08:35 PM
  #17  
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by bullheimer
yeah, i don't think the gas filter will change anything, altho a $15 part that probably needs changing anyway. my jeep will run great if, when lurching, i give it the gas, ergo and to-wit, no fuel flow problems. so yes, i think the dizzy has gotten chewed up myself. i guess i should just spend the $45 the junk yard wants for a used one.
A rebuilt is only $65 isnt it? Be sure to index the dizzy using this:






Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 08:43 PM
  #18  
bullheimer's Avatar
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Year: 89
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if that is all they are then i would be a punkin brain not to getta rebuilt. thanks. as far as indexing this clunk. it only goes in one way. can't move the ****ing thing around as in a chevy, for example, so i don't understand this amount of effort. i can see where #1 is when i dropped the dist down in the hole, assuming it goes kurplunt into the cam shaft or whatever. i did have it in and out at least three times when i was trying to figure out why it wasnt starting about a year ago or two, when i first got it and joined this forum. i think cutting a hole in a dist cap is a good idea tho, but i just bought this one about two months back. that is one thing that concerned me, is that a brand new cap and rotor and one month later i have alot of debris, metal debris, laying around on top of the cap. not a good thing. so that is another reason i think my dis is junk. i havent had the moolah, but now i do. i think i will put on the filter i got today and then next week get the rebuilt dist. i'll let y'all know wa happens.
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Old Mar 2, 2013 | 08:47 PM
  #19  
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by bullheimer
if that is all they are then i would be a punkin brain not to getta rebuilt. thanks. as far as indexing this clunk. it only goes in one way. can't move the ****ing thing around as in a chevy, for example, so i don't understand this amount of effort. i can see where #1 is when i dropped the dist down in the hole, assuming it goes kurplunt into the cam shaft or whatever. i did have it in and out at least three times when i was trying to figure out why it wasnt starting about a year ago or two, when i first got it and joined this forum. i think cutting a hole in a dist cap is a good idea tho, but i just bought this one about two months back. that is one thing that concerned me, is that a brand new cap and rotor and one month later i have alot of debris, metal debris, laying around on top of the cap. not a good thing. so that is another reason i think my dis is junk. i havent had the moolah, but now i do. i think i will put on the filter i got today and then next week get the rebuilt dist. i'll let y'all know wa happens.
The write-up addresses the issue with only having the one mounting spot, and THAT causing issues.
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #20  
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
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thanks cruiser you been alot of help.

i did not do anything with the dist tho except to replace it. CURED!!!!!!!!!!

FIRST THO, I REPLACED fuel filter and it seemed like it had more get up and go but it still started to run like crap. actually even worse. i dont get it. alot of rusty looking gas came out of it tho.

today i finally had the money for the dist and i went to start the jeep and it was low and died. i put the charger on it and IT WOULD NOT START AGAIN. OH NO NOT THIS AGAIN

HAVING been there done that, i reseated the connectors to the coil jobydoo. zip, but then a re-seat of the crank sensor connector made it start right up.

drove it around to make sure it still ran like crap. it did, changed the distributor, even tho the old one appeared to be fine, IT FIXED EVERYTHING AND RUNS GREAT
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Old Mar 11, 2013 | 03:43 PM
  #21  
cruiser54's Avatar
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by bullheimer
thanks cruiser you been alot of help.

i did not do anything with the dist tho except to replace it. CURED!!!!!!!!!!

FIRST THO, I REPLACED fuel filter and it seemed like it had more get up and go but it still started to run like crap. actually even worse. i dont get it. alot of rusty looking gas came out of it tho.

today i finally had the money for the dist and i went to start the jeep and it was low and died. i put the charger on it and IT WOULD NOT START AGAIN. OH NO NOT THIS AGAIN

HAVING been there done that, i reseated the connectors to the coil jobydoo. zip, but then a re-seat of the crank sensor connector made it start right up.

drove it around to make sure it still ran like crap. it did, changed the distributor, even tho the old one appeared to be fine, IT FIXED EVERYTHING AND RUNS GREAT
Hallelujah!!
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