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89 cherokee running bad

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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 06:52 AM
  #31  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by jeepinitinfl
Okay so..... I have changed every sensor, except knock sensor and EGR on manifold.... new ecu, Drained gas, New fuel pump, filter fuel rail ,fuel reg, all injectors, all vacum parts, distributor, rotor, plugs, wires, throttle body, compression check 135-145 all cylinders... still has a miss on accelleration???? I'm at a loss... Please help! Also good fuel pressure 31 psi, I'm thinking maybe prev owner has timing chain off a gear ...?? idk...
Did you do the sensor ground test as described in the first part of the TPS adjusting procedure?
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 06:52 PM
  #32  
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Does a 89 jeep Cherokee have a device that holds the prime. While the jeep is turned off. Mine seems like it is losing the fuels prime if it sits for a while. If it sits overnight I have to pour a little gas straight into the motor just to crank it.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 07:27 PM
  #33  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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The fuel pump primes when you first turn the key to the ON position.

You can have some leaky injectors letting the pressure off rather quickly.
Are they original?
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 08:17 PM
  #34  
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I'm not sure if they are original or not. But I would say they were. How do you check to see if one might be leaking?
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 10:24 PM
  #35  
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Year: 1989
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I'm having a similar problem with my 89 XJ. The injector on the #5 cylinder is stuck open, I have replaced the injector, cps, and checked the wires in the distributor. Could it be the computer not sending the signal to the injector to close?
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 10:43 PM
  #36  
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You're welcome.
Its darn good info!
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 10:54 PM
  #37  
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Year: 1998
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mine did this i had to melted injectors, id pull yours and check them its easy.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 10:57 PM
  #38  
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Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by 89' XJ
I'm not sure if they are original or not. But I would say they were. How do you check to see if one might be leaking?
Don't know if this is the right way but on my 90 I pulled the whole fuel rail out. Left it all connect. Injector plugs, fuel line and vacuum lines. I put card board long enough to set under all the injectors. Turn the key on and left the system pressure up and let it set for awhile. If you have a leak you will see it on the card board.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 11:02 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jeepinitinfl
It is not really as miss... wrong wording . it just stumbles under load..
I'm having some what the same problem, have changed a lot of stuff like you. Have you replaced the coil?? Been reading a lot on here and some have said the coil can cause the loss of power under acceleration. Been saving up for a coil to see if it fixes my problem.
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Old Jan 16, 2012 | 11:09 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Guys, you have to verify that your tune-up hardware is in good shape. It's hard to tell by looking at wires. The factory interval for plugs, wires, cap and rotor was every 30,000 miles. If you don't know when it was last done, do it now. Many times that simple maintenance stuff is the source of your problems.

Then, you're starting with something that is known, a baseline so to speak.
Really every 30,000?? So is buying all the big name brand stuff worth it?? And buying the life time warrenty parts?

Cruiser54 you know your stuff. A lot of your info has helped me. So what you say I'm doing!! Everyone can learn a lot from you. And I thank you for shareing your knowledge!!
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 05:24 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 89' XJ
I'm not sure if they are original or not. But I would say they were. How do you check to see if one might be leaking?
Use a fuel pressure gauge, run the engine, note pressure, monitor pressure and see how quickly it drops off.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 05:27 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by BigzXJ
Really every 30,000?? So is buying all the big name brand stuff worth it?? And buying the life time warrenty parts?

Cruiser54 you know your stuff. A lot of your info has helped me. So what you say I'm doing!! Everyone can learn a lot from you. And I thank you for shareing your knowledge!!
Yes, 30,000 was the interval from the factory. Use quality stuff, not lifetime. You want a good cap and rotor with brass terminals, not aluminum. Napa's stuff is good, especially their Belden brand plug wires.

Recommended time to replace the fuel filter, too.

Clean the throttle body and IAC are what we did on the 30,000 mile services also.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 08:05 AM
  #43  
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From: Stuart, FL
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I did changer the coil and checked the tps..
No change... I have a donor 90 xm that runs perfect. And have pretty much swapped everything with no change...
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #44  
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From: Stuart, FL
Year: 1990
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I did change the coil and checked the tps..
No change... I have a donor 90 xj that runs perfect. And have pretty much swapped everything with no change...
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 03:02 PM
  #45  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by jeepinitinfl
I did change the coil and checked the tps..
No change... I have a donor 90 xj that runs perfect. And have pretty much swapped everything with no change...
How about the tune-up stuff?
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