89 jeep cherokee 4.0l auto trans 4x4
Okay I have found no info on how to test it I am suspecting it maybe fault motor doesn't rev up but idles like a boss anyway I was wonder how to test it I read somewhere that if you disconnect it it'll just run the injectors on batch fire. Which I think is happening because I had the injectors in each set backwords and didn't change a thing. So it is eather the cam or cranks sensor not communacating with each other. Already replaced the tps which was reading dead (no voltage increase at all) haven't tested it with a multi meter yet though to confirm accuracy. I just wanna check these with a multi meter before I keep throwing 50 sensors at it. Any ideas? Ohh I also have the coolent temp sensor and the knock sensor hooked up yet (motor swap pigtail issues)

 

There's no cam sensor. Get everything connected before trying to diagnose a fault. If there's still an issue use better grammar, it's hard to decipher what you're trying to state/ask.

 

So then it's just the crank sensor? What connects to the dizzy then? The book calls it a magnetic pick up coil. But from what I am use to it wouldn't run at all when disconnected. And it still does. It's gatta have something to do with the injectors

 

It has NOTHING to do with ignition. You can unplug it and the Jeep will still run just fine.

What about the other sensors? Are they hooked up or not? You haven't adjusted the TPS?

Knock sensor won't matter anyway.

 

How does the timing advance then? Yeah I have everything hooked up. And no I don't have the tps adjust because I can't find crap on it anywhere. All I know is that when I push on the trigger for the sensor without actually moving the throttle it does effect how it runs. So I wanna prob the tps and at idle I want it to be at .02 volts?

 

What does the hall effect sensor do in the dizzy anyways?

 

Go to the Tips in my pink link below for that info.

 

What pink link...? I am on a phone I can't see it

 

This one.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cr...x-tips-153657/

 

You might want to use a computer to get the most out of this forum. You can't see diagrams etc on a phone. Also, we like people to use punctuation here so as not to confuse us old folk too much.

 

You need to read the forum posts. There are literally over 50 posts on TPS adjusting.

 

X2. For instance, remove the comma from, "I helped my uncle Jack, off a horse", ...it doesn't mean the same thing.

Aren't there apps that make those dumb things smarter? Doen' this over the internet is like trying to tie your shoes with chopsticks. Now with the "smart" gadgets, English seems like a second language, and one of the chopsticks is "bendy".

(not to pick on you nuggie, it's just frustrating)

 

And to me, when I see pi$$ poor english / punctuation I automatically assume the poster is a snot nose ricer kid or something.

No, not you OP.

As stated above, look at this thread on a computer. If you follow the very detailed Renix troubleshooting that's already been linked then you should be able to figure out your issue.

IF all the important sensors are hooked up then I will ask, is your exhaust hooked up?

If so could the catalytic converter be totally clogged?

I have personally been a witness to two, yes TWO engines being diagnosed as bad and replaced to only have the same issue. "clogged catalytic converter"

Amazing.

 

Anyway I think he was trying to say it starts and idles, but something goes wrong when he opens the throttle.

nuggie, It's always a good idea to be sure the MAP tube is flawless. No cracks, breaks, blockage.

 

That is a good point but I would think that a leaky tube would cause it to idle very poorly *extremely rich* and if you mash the accelerator it would rev up just fine.