Ok what we noticed was a blue colored vaccum line on the left side of the motor passenger side it was disconnected at the round plastic diaphram looking thing the other end end was going to a junction that had another line colored red on the other side.

Cant seem to find any vaccum diagrams for that hose or a couple others near it any ideas where the other end of the blue hose might connect to the end that would be on the left side nipple is missing???

Also the o2 relay??? o2 heater not working maybe

We dont seem to know what is causing the high idle after warm up.

Starts fine at about 700 rpm then couple mins later goes to 1000 then eventually stays at 1200-1500 rpms.

We dont wanna play with that set screw as someone else had mentioned they done we wanna find the real problem.

Also i know u mentioned .84 on the tps cruiser but for some reason my dad is gonna go with .8 as several people have mentioned in posts.

We have currently plugged the vaccum leak the nipple at the other end of the plastic diaphram so the blue vaccum is plugged have yet to see if the jeep runs any better if the idle comes down havent ran it yet.

We have also swapped the o2 relay with another one that was near it dont know if that will prove anything or even work.

 

You plugged the VENT for the front axle disconnect system. Unplug it.

What if someone previously messed with the screw on the throttle body? Is that possible?

 

Looks like the idle screw has never been played with no marks from pliers no gouges doesnt appear to be messed with though.

Replaced the o2 relay today idle dident change.

Im looking at what if that tb set screw has never been touched something else must be causing the high idle and its weird because ive replaced every sensor in the jeep.

Cps idle air control o2 tps cts iat coolant temp vaccum harness. Cant be much left.

As a last resort will we touch that screw. Havent givin up on it yet runs good now aside from the high idle.

 

Can you re-post your current symptoms/problem? Yea, the EGR diaphragm should only get vacuum in certain situations. Idle isn't one of them. I need to pull mine and check to see if I have a hidden vacuum leak. (that's what is does, with exhaust) Guess you knew that. Anyway you can just pull and plug the line to it for diagnostics.

I wonder (Cruiser), can the throttle plate clearance be checked? Maybe a narrow strip of paper, grabbed or not?

 

Just to throw it out there have you looked at the knock sensor, it may be faulty or is working with an not so often misfire?

 

Knock sensor will never cause a driveability issue. All it does is sense knock and tell the ECU to momentarily retard the ignition timing. It cannot cause a miss, rough idle, change idle speed etc etc.

 

#14 in my write-ups:

Cruiser’s Renix Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment
Okay. Let's start from scratch. First off, that's not an idle adjustment screw. It's a throttle butterfly stop screw. It's purpose is to allow the butterfly to be as close to completely closed as it can be without binding or wearing into the throttle body. It was never intended to be adjusted in the field. But, Uncle Bob didn’t know that, did he?

Engine off. Back off the butterfly stop screw with a 3/32" allen wrench until the butterfly is completely closed. Now. turn the screw in until the FAINTEST movement of the butterfly opening is detected. This can be done more easily with the throttle body removed. If you remove the throttle body, be sure to replace the gasket underneath it after thoroughly cleaning the old one off.
Revised 07/07/2012

 

Well sort of my question. checking it. Does yours grab a 1/4 inch strip of printer paper, how about Saran wrap? The idea being maybe it could be CHECKED in a minute or two, as opposed to being re-set. ???

 

Go check yours and let us know what worked. Yours hasn't been touched by Uncle Bob has it?
Mine are all 60mm bored TBs and I have no spares.

 

I wonder if yellow doesn't look tan sometimes. Seems 208 is Bosch. I didn't find it yet....

 

What paper worked in your throttle body?

 

We adjusted that screw 2 turns now the idle seems real real low when its cold say 500 then as it warms up gets higher stays around 1000 rpm.

When cold ive watched the tach and it will sorta bounce from alil under 500 rpm and then go up to like 600 then back down ever so many seconds.

Seems like after it warms up the tach dont move as much the needle will stay at say 1000

 

Make sure you don't adjust it down too far. Follow my instructions. Turn it back in until you just see/feel the butterfly move.