dont mean to sound rude but ive awnsered cruisers questions about the tps voltage several times and it was adjusted.

But just to be sure i checked it today at the connector with the key on and unplugged i was getting 4.96v and plugged in key on i was getting 4.86v.

I checked at the b ground and a terminal dont know if that range is acceptable .

 

Which connector did you check? The flat one or square one? Very important.

Key on and plugged in.

 

The flat one

 

Have you read my instructions? You take the reference voltage with the key on and the sensor plugged in.
Red probe on A and black probe on B. That's your reference voltage.
Leave black probe on B and use the red probe on C.
In your case of a reference voltage of 4.86, you should read .82 volts now.

 

Either way my father knows more about that then me and he had adjusted it to the proper range several times and my car will get that hesitation

Reguardless of how you set the tps.

Im gonna replace the throttle body tomorrow with one i got from the bone yard.

This new tb appears like it has the original iac and tps on it and none appear to have been played with.

Of course i picked up a new trottle body gasket.

Mine car was an 89 this one came off of a 1990 all looks the same.

So i figure cruiser if it is the tps that is causing the problems i mentioned somehow.

I'll have the original one not some oem replacement not to mention the throttle plate on my original tb seems alot looser then this newer one i got

 

Update i swapped out the throttle body and nothing changed except the idle dropped down after it warmed up alil other then that the hesitation was still there. same problem as before.

I have access to a fuel pump from a buddy i wonder if that would help me.

The tps sensor on this new one said standard electronics and i was told was a premuim brand. Im still stumped.

 

Before changing your fuel pump CHECK THE PRESSURE!

 

You can figure this out with out changing or replacing anything. Figure out the problem first Then fix.

 

thats what im doing this week trying to figure out if its injectors themselfs or fuel pump related or the map sensor.

There is also this coolant temp sensor on the block i havent touched or replaced that ive replaced one on the radiator only.

but like you say 88 check before you replace. as ive already dumped money into sensors that basicly did nothing.

Ive replaced every part on the old tb. Nothing nothing changed ran the same.

Got one from the boneyard swapped it out the other day nothing happened. The idle drops down like its supposed to now but thats really it.

What is the easiest way to check/test pressure.


Ok so it appears that when the car warms up the rpm still says at about 1100-1200 rpm in idle so id say its idleing too high same as with the old throttle body

 

I had the same problems, engine dying with light gas pedal application from a stop. Replace the EGR Valve Transducer. HOW TO TEST IT
This is used on 4.0L engines only. From the internet,,

1. Disconnect all transducer lines and remove transducer.
2. Plug transducer output port. Apply 1-2 pounds air pressure to transducer back pressure port (used compressed air adjusted to correct pressure). Apply a minimum of 12 in. Hg (kPa) of vacuum to transducer input port.
3. Replace transducer if it will not hold vacuum.
4. My findings,,,,, what I did,,,, with valve removed and outlet plugged, apply vac from a hand vac pump to the "VAC" side of the transducer, the black plastic thing near the EGR Valve. It should NOT hold vacuum. Apply air pressure to the bottom 90 degree molded hose on the bottom of the transducer, just blow into it, it should then hold vacuum when using the hand vac pump. Release pressure and vac should instantly bleed off. Another way to test the valve, with engine running and at operating temperature, look down into the EGR valve mount and watch for the shaft to move out and then back in. With slight gas pedal application there should be NO movement of the stem, at all. That stem should only be moving when there is substantial exhaust pressure applied to that bottom hose on the Transducer to allow the vacuum to get to the EGR valve, such as at cruise speed settings. What it does is when at low throttle settings, NO vac is sent to the EGR valve. That would kill the engine or cause stumble and hesitation. At higher throttle settings where the engine is up to speed, back pressure in the exhaust system allows that transducer to open and allow vacuum to go to the EGR valve. I have been fighting this problem for over a month now and last night I finally found out how to test the transducer. I replaced the EGR Valve Transducer ahead of the EGR Valve and the Jeep is running perfect now, no stalling off idle or any more hesitations !!!!

 

Thanks man your info might save me from replacing the whole valve. I was having this problem for about 15 years now and as you say egr u knew right away what could cause those conditions.

Too bad i dident run into you3 years ago when i picked up the car and tryed to chase the problem.

unfortunatly i just unplugged the egr problem solved for now till i try your fix

 

That's just what I did worked great have not replaced yet