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Gotcha. I guess I know my next small project. In the mean time, what do you do with the useless vacuum lines?
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cruiser54
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Lock it in and forget it.
That's what Jeep did in 1991.
And, the models with SelecTrac had no hubs or disconnect..
That's what Jeep did in 1991.
And, the models with SelecTrac had no hubs or disconnect..
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Although not necessary to lock it in, good idea.Originally Posted by camohunter01
Probably a good reason and time to drain and refill with fresh fluid too
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Agreed. So cruiser, I haventvtraced the vacuum lines for it, but since they will be useless from there on out, will it hurt to remove them?
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Nope. As long as the vac source is capped off at the vacuum Y under the coolant bottle, rip them out.Originally Posted by camohunter01
Agreed. So cruiser, I haventvtraced the vacuum lines for it, but since they will be useless from there on out, will it hurt to remove them?
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So that's where that Y leads to? Lol nothing is connected to it besides the line going to the vacuum can behind the bumper. Too much stuff was messed up on this beast when I got it. I guess I will trace it all back
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Huh? Hell no. Ditch it all. As soon as you fix one part of that brittle decades old system another part will fail and strand you. Slide the collar over and strip those vacuum lines to the CAD. Originally Posted by camohunter01
So that's where that Y leads to? Lol nothing is connected to it besides the line going to the vacuum can behind the bumper. Too much stuff was messed up on this beast when I got it. I guess I will trace it all back
We'll get you through the next issue.
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Lol 10-4. Didn't mean to hijack your thread 88xj4.0. I'm glad you posted this. Would have been stuff I would have caught when I really needed it
I checked the yellow, white and green lines at the CAD and im only getting vacuum to the green line. If i put the green line where the yellow usually goes it will engage the CAD but i have to get under the jeep and put it back when i wanna take it out. I have locked it before but i get a real bad vibration over 45 mph
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Then your front driveshaft/u-joints need attention.Originally Posted by 88xj4.0
I checked the yellow, white and green lines at the CAD and im only getting vacuum to the green line. If i put the green line where the yellow usually goes it will engage the CAD but i have to get under the jeep and put it back when i wanna take it out. I have locked it before but i get a real bad vibration over 45 mph
Have you ever greased the rear u-joints on the front driveshaft?
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Quote:
I'd check and see if the yellow line is connected to the valve/switch on the Transfer case. One makes it engage, the other pulls it out. A clever part of the design, the vacuum that pulls it to engage, the disco then shunts that vacuum to the light switch on the fender up by the coolant bottle, only after the collar has moved over. Likewise the light will not go off, unless the collar has moved back out, and vacuum is cut to the light switch. Originally Posted by 88xj4.0
I checked the yellow, white and green lines at the CAD and im only getting vacuum to the green line.
There might be a way to have a light if you hack it, (at least a reasonable guess).
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Just ditch that crap.
You're attempting to polish a turd.
You're attempting to polish a turd.
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What polish do you recommend Don? Do they make a special CAD Turd polish?Originally Posted by DFlintstone


If only you had the experience I've had with CAD instead of just your own, you would understand.
Why keep trying to encourage others to polish their turd when doing so could very well leave them stranded somewhere in the future? The system stunk when new and hasn't aged well.