Finally got the Jeep running half ways decent. My problem now is when I let the jeep sit after driving it, say I shut it off run in to the store and come back out to start it, I have to give it gas to get it started. If I shut it off and immediately start it back up it starts up no problem without having to give it any gas?

 

When was the last time the Throttle Body was cleaned?

 

^^
try turning the key on and off about three times(leave it on for a few seconds each time) then start. could be losing fuel prime. Also try giving your CPS a cleaning.

 

The TB was just cleaned this past weekend.

 

Not to disagree with the above....I had an injector or two that would leak into the cylinder so when I started it warm like that it would miss for just a second till it cleared out. If you have the stock two piece Simens Deka injectors you might want to up-grade anyway, and it might help your problem.

Cruiser will likely find you but in the meantime you can find his tips on your Jeep in my signature. It's easy to check the MAP tube, never a bad idea;

There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich.

 

The one engine management sensor that can screw with either cold OR hot starting is the coolant temp sensor; the one that feeds input data to the computer, not the one that feeds data to the dash gauge.

If that is giving incorrect data to the computer, the computer may think that the engine is either hot or vice versa cold when the opposite is true.

 

That's what I had come to conclude. Is there any way to test this sensor? Also which sensor is it? IIRC the sensor on the back of the head sends to the gauge.

 

I know you have 2 sensors but can't remember which feeds which. A search should get you there or I'm sure somebody else will comment. I think the one that feeds the computer is on the side of the block around cylinders 2-3. Been a while since I've worked on a RENIX.

These sensors can be tested but if you follow the procedure in the FSM, it's kind of a PITA with removing sensor, placing it in a beaker of hot water with a calibrated thermometer, etc.

What I do is take resistance readings when COLD and HOT and compare. There is a chart of resistances in the manuals and even when still installed in the engine, these resistances should be close. I found this information online about resistances for this particular sensor. There should be a very wide swing in resistances between cold and hot....

3,400 ohms @ 70*, 185 ohms @ 212*) Unplugged.

If any doubt, just replace it as they aren't that expensive.