I could almost vote bad ignition switch.

 

Thank you again. Is there any way to test the ignition switch?

For what it's worth, a previous owner wired in a push button start. I get the same results with that. Of course, if the ignition switch is bad and somehow not staying in the run position then I guess it won't run either way.

So, as of now, my 3 items to check are, fuel pressure, CPS, and ignition switch.

 

Correct.

 

Well, just checking here to report my findings. When I got home I replaced the ignition switch, crankshaft position sensor and fuel pump...in that order. After the ignition and cps, I decided to use my brain and sprayed some started fluid in the throttle body. It started right up and idled until it burned all the fluid.

Now, with that in mind, it seems to me that there is something keeping the injectors from working. Any ideas what that might be? Another sensor, relay, fuse??

 

Check the fuel pump relay connections and maybe swap it with another of the relays.

 

Thanks once again. I checked and swapped those and cleaned the connections while I was at it. No change. Is there fuse or relay dedicated to the injectors? I'm going to check the wiring tomorrow looking for broken wires, etc. This is going to make the rest of my hair fall out!

 

Check the harness where it curves from the firewall to the back of the engine. Known to chafe there. Ever cleaned the C101 connector?

Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing
　



The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before.



Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, ECU, and some to the TCU, travel this path through the C101 connector.

The C101 connector is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the ¼" bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time.

Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth.

If you have a small pick or dental tool, tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter before bolting both halves back together.

　

Revised 03-02-2013

 

I think we are on the same thought process here. I did clean the connection pretty good but there was a ton of that tar looking stuff in it. I was thinking about following the fuel injector wires back to the C101 and then cutting and splicing them directly to each other to eliminate the C101 all together.

For what it's worth, I went out this morning and pulled the connector off of one of my injectors and put my MultiMeter on the 2 pins. When starting it's reading 0v. I know it's probably a pulse but I should still see some change. I guess at this point I'm chasing down wiring, relays, fusible links, etc?

 

NEVER a bad idea to bypass the c101 IMHO. As long as solder and shrink tubing are used. No butt connectors!

 

Thanks, I've got the solder already just need to stop and get heat shrink on the way home.

Also, just to get more visibility, I've started a dedicated "my motor won't start thread" here. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/198...2/#post2409745

Again, thanks for all of your help so far.