bobbylx

Hello all, just have a fairly simple question I hope. I'm preparing to swap my 87 renix with a 96. I've got the engine almost ready to drop in, using the 96 block and head, with renix intake/exhaust/flywheel and some other parts.

My question is this. The 96 I got was a complete engine. I was wondering if it would be better to use the injectors that were on my 87, or if the 96 injectors would be better? The 96 was rebuilt about 18k miles ago but I don't know if the injectors were replaced. My 87 is all stock including the injectors, so even if the 96 injectors are original they are still 9 years newer. Any opinions on this?

cruiser54

The 96 injectors SHOULD work. And the 87 injectors are prone to leaking and causing fires.

bobbylx

Well that's good to know!

Now I've got another question. It's probably an obvious one, but have to ask. The oil pressure sending unit (I assume that's what it is, just below the distributor towards the firewall) is different between the 87 and 96. The 96 has a more modern looking 2 prong plug and the older of course has the single wire plug. Is there a way to wire in the newer style or should I just stick with the renix one? I assume just use the renix, but wanted some confirmation. Thanks.

DFlintstone

There is a link to Cruisers writings there in my signature. Without looking I believe it says to treat it like a long block, use the Renix stuff. I guess the "Jury is out" on where to locate the temp sender on the back of your head. I have some thoughts, but I haven't actually done it.

cruiser54

Use the Renix oil sender.

Put your temp sender in the 96's thermostat housing and extend the wire.

bobbylx

Thanks all, had everything swapped over except the oil pressure sender. I assumed it had to go as well, just wondered if the newer could be modded. Thanks again.

cruiser54

Ain't hard at all, is it?

bobbylx

It's actually very straight forward, not bad at all. I've actually been using your guide the whole time. Just needed confirmation on one or two things to save myself some headaches later on. Thanks.

cruiser54

You're welcome. I did that write-up after doing my first HO into Renix swap and reading all the misinformation on the internet.

bobbylx

Well, got it all swapped, bolted up, wired, etc, and am now troubleshooting a starting issue. When I turn the key, it takes about 5 second and then the engine start for about 1-2 seconds then die. It sounds smooth, not missing or anything, it just will not stay running.

I have verified that I am getting fuel, I am getting spark, I have indexed my timing. My 3 thoughts are, 1, I've left off or damage wiring somehwere, 2, I'm left off or damaged vacuum somewhere (I never thought missing vacuums lines would cause it not to run, but I'm out of ideas), 3, while I have spark at the plugs, it wasn't a nice blue spark, more orange so I wonder if it's the distributor? I have spares of a lot of stuff, so I've swapped plugs, plug wires, injectors, distributor cap.

I've tried to go through and check all my wiring and vacuum hoses. The problem with vacuum is that half the hoses weren't connected before I started the swap, now I don't know where half the stuff goes. I've used the vacuum diagrams but they are a bit vague.
Another observation is that during that 1-2 seconds when it starts up and seems like it's going to idle, pressing the gas pedal make no change. It does not rev or have any effect. Maybe signs of electrical?

Thinking about picking up a crankshaft position sensor tomorrow. I've read that can show the same signs and is easily damaged during an engine swap. I guess for $30 it's worth a shot.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

cruiser54

Did you get the grounds reconnected at the engine dipstick tube stud? Clean and shiny?

Did you knock any wires off the fuel pump ballast resistor during the swap?

DFlintstone

It's probably not the distributor if it runs smooth for a bit. It will actually run fine with the lower wires disconnected.

In my signature a there is a link to a set of photos that might help with the vacuum lines. (at the bottom at the moment, in post#43)

The little tube from the inside of the TB, back then up to the MAP sensor on the firewall is CRUCIAL! That needs to be right.

I think the wire off the rear of the ballast resistor goes straight to the fuel pump. It's OK if that has full voltage.

Granted, it's easy to muck up the CPS swapping an engine, but thanks to Cruiser, I can check the AC output of mine in less time than it takes to tie my shoes. (OK, lace my Red Wings).

bobbylx

I thought about the ballast resistor, but mine appears to not have one. And I'm one step ahead of you on the grounds. While I was going through the trouble of an engine swap, I followed one of your other guides for cleaning up the grounds and also cleaning electrical connections.

I followed your link, thanks for that. That vacuum diagram is a bit more complete than the one I was using. At least I know this, I have all the important vacuum lines connected per that diagram.

cruiser54

87s didn't come with the ballast resistor early on. It was added later to reduce fuel pump whine.

Don't rule out the fuel pump. It may make pressure initially and then die off. a fuel pressure test is a good idea.

If you're gonna do the CPS, be sure to dril the one hole out per my write-up. Also take a look at this diagram and be sure you have the harness routed/attached properly.

bobbylx

Thank you cruiser! And if it's any help at all, I've made a quick video. It's dark in the cab, but hey, it was 6:30am. Not much to see on the dash, but hopefully it will be of assistance.

http://s1196.photobucket.com/user/bo...6427c.mp4.html