JDWIII

Ok, so here is my situation.......I recently purchased a POS with a 2.5l Hurricane. I did so because it ran, the 4WD works great, it only set me back $150 and I was looking for a project vehicle. Here's the problem, the previous owner disconnected just about every vacuum line, replaced the carburetor that has an electric choke (that isn't plugged in) and I cannot find a picture anywhere of what needs to be hooked up. I bought a Haynes but it isn't telling me much, I went to junkyards hoping to find an example to duplicate but am not having much luck. The vehicle has under 180,000 miles so I know if I can just get it to run like it should there should be another 50,000 I can get out of it.
Any help would be appreciated........Thanks

Orlo

LS SWAP! Or as an alternative..... Buy an actual field service manual. It will give you all the information you need to know to put it together correctly. Haynes manuals are ok for some basic information. My experience with them has always made me turn to the FSM for the real information I need.

jedijeb

Is the current carb a 1 barrel Carter YFA or is the an newer 2 barrel Weber?

Many of these were upgraded to the Weber, I plan to upgrade mine soon too. If so much of the vacuum lines are bypassed, but the electric choke should be attached.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/2-5...ss-plus-30427/

Here is a link to a write-up on much of what is done when bypassing the computer and upgrading to the Weber. The only thing the computer actually does is retard the timing a few degrees until the engine warms up, if it goes bad you can spend $300+ to replace it or simply cut and splice one wire and keep going.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm

This page has a little more details you can search through to help. It is mostly for the Wrangler but the two systems are similar.

DFlintstone

I've got a stock 84 here I've had forever. (non opped now). I just looked and there is no vacuum advance diaphragm. Puter' must do the advance. One other thing I think it shares with the newer fuel injected is the IAC. An Idle Air Control on the (carb, in your case), fulfills the function of the Idle speed screw of old. We use to open the throttle plate with a screw on a stop. NOW THE IAC, computer controlled, opens a passage around the throttle plate to do that....Pretty sure there

You gonna try to pass smog or inspections? Is a question. As far as vacuum, we do want crankcase circulation for a number of reasons. Mine, on the front of the VC is what looks like a PCV valve of old. That line on the VC goes right to intake vacuum. It would be a huge vacuum leak, but is restricted, (to 2.6mm in our 4.0's). The other vent on-top of the VC should get filtered air from the air cleaner. Idea being clean air gets sucked in, then goes into the engine, then out through the PVC/CCV to be burnt clean.

Your engine will be just fine with just that above. Once you get that settled and set, to be in compliance with smog laws, figuring out how to hook up the EGR valve and it's stuff will necessary. (Just last week I saw someone with vacuum hooked straight to their ERG valve!) A big no-no! You don't want to recirculate exhaust gas all the time!


Note...I don't care for automatic choke. I'll install a cable or just wire it full open. Open like that you need good ring in the accelerator pump in your carb. Cold, with the bowl full you pump it a bit, then nurse her a bit after it fires with the acc pump/petal. (not tried in Minnesota winter!)