My wheels cylinders were leaking pretty bad last week so i decided to replace them along with my brake shoes on both sides. i installed the new cylinders and shoes and was going to bleed the brakes and after about the fourth or fifth pump it pushes the inside of the wheel cylinder on the driver side out one side of the cylinder.did i reassemble the springs wrong or is it a bad wheel cylinder? then on the passengar side the shoe tpwards the front of the vehicle drags when i put the drum cover on like the shoes are off centered. any suggestions will help as this was my first experience with drum brakes. ill take pics of both sides and post later to show how i have them assembled. thanks

 

when your bleeding the wheel cylinders do you have the drums on or off? the drums will need to be on when ever you step on the brake pedal or the wheel cylinders will come apart because there is nothing stopping them from pushing the shoe out as far as they can. when installing the brake pads, there may be a longer shoe and a shorter shoe on each side. the longer shoe needs to be at the back and the shorter shoe at the front. also some drag is wanted when the drum is installed. with no drag when installed the brake pedal is going to have to travel further to get the rear brakes to apply. also when drag is present the amount of braking force from the rear will increase. there is a fine line between too much drag and not enough drag. you will just want a little resistance when trying to turn it by hand, but not so much resistance where you really have to try. when you get pictures up i can see if anything looks out of place as far as the hardware goes.

 

Yeaa i definetly didnt have the drum covers on when i went to bleed them so that makes sense. ill still post pics when i get off work in a couple hours. when i put the covers back on both shoes should make a little contact right? cuz i think the smaller shoe is the only one rubbing. the larger shoe dosent rub like the shoes arent centered. ill double check later and post pics. thanks

 

When you wear out those new parts after you get it right...do a ZJ disc brake conversion. Much easier than all that mess.

 

alright, well yea, deff keep those drums on when you bleed them this time. and start at the right rear, pump the pedal 3 times, on the 3rd time hold it down, open the bleeder, when fluid/air stops coming out close the bleeder then let off the pedal. repeat this 4 to 5 times per side. and only the front shoe will be making the main contact when adjusting the brakes. but if the rear shoe is making a little contact either that is nothing to worry about. once you drive it after you get it bled and put back together they will center themselves.

 

That's your problem! You have to have it completely assembled before you bleed them or everything will just fall apart when you pump up the brakes.

 

Thanks for the help guys. Adjusted the shoes to where they barely touch the drum and bled them farthest to closest and was good togo after that. I love this site its always helpful.

 

Awesome, glad to hear that you got it done and its all workin. More than glad to help. Let us know if ya have any other questions.

 

Bleeding aside, the position of those shoes is what's gonna determine your pedal free play. I've found that rocking forward and back. (the Jeep, not you!), with the e-brake on might make the auto adjusters work ...some.

I tighten the adjusters through the slot until the wheels are about stuck. (I start the engine and press the brake to seat them all the way home, once or twice) Then I back off until it is almost completely free. NO FUN! Gottta stick something in there to free the auto adjuster, than turn the wheel back to back them off to get them free again. A pain through that little slot, but you can have a high, solid pedal.

 

Changed rears this weekend... drums, shoes, new hardware kit, new self adjuster kit.... did drivers side rear last and found wheel cylinder leaking badly http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2c7c06ea.jpg ... had to run to Advance Auto for the cylinder.... as for adjusting, I agree with everyone about a little friction when rotated, however, I have found that backing up and pumping and/or applying some good braking force traveling in reverse will adjust the rears just fine from there.