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Old Apr 13, 2014 | 11:48 PM
  #16  
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What Cruiser waz getting at. (that I almost mentioned), is that if the tires are slightly different circumference, the "bind" adds up to allot of difference. IE, if the rear drive line turned at a different speed of the front, and binding it doesn't like to disengage. (hence backing up can free it). (a smaller wheel will make more revolutions in 100 feet than a bigger one)

Pete, he tried backing up a mile. Oh! "in a circle" he says....mmmmmm Stopped in neutral with the engine off works IIRC. NJ, did you go under there and check that those lines are connected? (three on the disco, and I think four on the rear of the transfer case?)

There IS an option to lock that Disco, not my first choice, but if it won't work as designed.....I'd check the vacuum lines first myself.
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #17  
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All bets are off until he begins shifting it as it was designed to be shifted.

I wonder if the fluid level/condition has been checked since purchased by him.......
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:33 AM
  #18  
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All new fluid
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:55 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by nj88xj
All new fluid
Good to know. Until you set the tire pressure and try shifting it like it should be shifted and report back, we'll not have any good advice for you.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 06:19 AM
  #20  
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So all pressures are set, but I discovered that there is no disco on my front axel....
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:17 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by nj88xj
So all pressures are set, but I discovered that there is no disco on my front axel....
This "disco" stuff has muddied the waters.

Forget about that for the meantime.

Describe, in order, the shifter positions on the indicator for the transfer case shift lever.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:22 AM
  #22  
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2 wheel
4 part time
4 high
Neutral
4 low
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:29 AM
  #23  
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Try shifting the 4wd shifter to neutral and see if it still goes if it does than thats a serious problem if it goes into neutral than its the linkage
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:54 AM
  #24  
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It goes into neutral
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:57 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by nj88xj
2 wheel
4 part time
4 high
Neutral
4 low
Now we're making progress.

You have an NP242 transfer case which does not use a front axle disconnect. It's a great set-up.

That said, it's a finickier shifter than the other t-case that was used.

So, have you tried shifting using my instructions yet? The tapping the gas pedal and letting off part is crucial for the NP242. In a straight line, do that. Don't be afraid to pull on the lever is a quick and crisp fashion.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 07:59 AM
  #26  
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Tapping the gas pedal when?
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 08:02 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by nj88xj
Tapping the gas pedal when?
Here's how the factory suggests you shift the transfer case and I've been doing this since these things were new and I worked at the dealership. Quoted from the owner's manual. The suggestions in ITALICS are mine.

"To engage, shift the transfer case lever from 2H to 4H while the vehicle is moving at any legal speed". I let off the gas, throw the lever, and then tap the gas and let off.

4L position: " To engage, slow the vehicle to 2-3 MPH , shift the transmission to Neutral, then shift the transfer lever to the right and pull firmly rearward to 4L".

To shift out of 4L, shift the transmission into neutral with the vehicle stopped, shift the transfer case lever to 2H, then to D if you have an automatic, or into first gear with a manual, and continue on.


Revised 01-31-2014
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 08:12 AM
  #28  
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Okay that makes sense now I also get a clanking noise sometimes front the front left I think so I think it's either a u joint or t-case chain
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 08:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by nj88xj
Okay that makes sense now I also get a clanking noise sometimes front the front left I think so I think it's either a u joint or t-case chain
Gotta check all that stuff first. Sounds like you're off to a good start changing fluids. Grease all the u-joints and check for play in the driveshafts. FWIW, it's real hard to lube the rear cardon joint set-up on the front driveshaft. Best to remove it.
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Old Apr 15, 2014 | 09:28 AM
  #30  
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Thanks to you all I will get to work on that stuff when I get a chance then I will report back
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