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4WD Grinding and no power to front

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Old Jul 9, 2013 | 05:00 AM
  #16  
chipmaker's Avatar
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From: Belton S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Haha. Yeah Id say you could use a chain. When the cain has excessive slack it drags the back ase half. You can buy replacement rear halves for reasonable, or you can hit the bone yard for another case.

I dont recommend patching it though.
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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 02:07 AM
  #17  
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From: San Diego, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: AMC 4.0
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Just as an update, I'm currently rebuilding the case and installing an SYE kit at the same time. Luckily no internals were damaged besides the rear case half. The inside of the case had literal mounds of greasy, metal shaving gunk all over the bottom. Oil filter shredded as well. Luckily that's a cheap part and part of the rebuild kit.
Had some trouble with some bolts and snap rings for sure though.
Why they put a 12-point 10mm bolt on is beyond me.

Just waiting on the case half and SYE kit before I put it all back together. =]
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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 08:18 PM
  #18  
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From: Belton S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Let us know how it goes
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 07:17 PM
  #19  
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From: San Diego, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: AMC 4.0
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Transfer case is DONE. I only used a few things out of the rebuild kit which was a bummer. Came with four or five bearings, roughly 10 oil seals, around 6 fork pads, and a metal sleeve. Since I replaced the rear half, it already had a bearing in it. And I installed an SYE which rendered some more stuff useless. Oh well. Anyways.

Snap rings are a PITA. Seriously. Especially when they don't have holes for snap ring pliers.



This one was hell getting off and hell putting back on.



End result. I'm satisfied.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 07:15 PM
  #20  
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From: Belton S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Nice. But for future reference sears sells pliers for the ear less snap rings for like 15 bucks. What kind of drive shaft you running?
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:39 AM
  #21  
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From: San Diego, CA
Year: 1995
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Engine: AMC 4.0
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My local Sears actually didn't have any snap-ring pliers. Was a pity.

And I'm going to stick my front one in the back and make sure the length correlates. If it does, a local Jeep junkyard has another front one which only needs a u-joint replaced. For $75. So not bad.
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 03:44 AM
  #22  
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From: San Diego, CA
Year: 1995
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Engine: AMC 4.0
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http://www.sears.com/proto-plier-loc...&blockType=G97

Are these what you're talking about?
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 08:17 PM
  #23  
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From: Belton S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by savagess2546
http://www.sears.com/proto-plier-loc...&blockType=G97

Are these what you're talking about?
Yup, but my store had the craftsman ones for a lil cheaper. Those things are worth their weight in gold. Let me know how the D.S. works out. Planning on doing a lift soon and would like to try and save the cost of a woody. What kind of lift you running?
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Old Sep 25, 2013 | 11:11 PM
  #24  
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From: San Diego, CA
Year: 1995
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Engine: AMC 4.0
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Well everything bolted right up. Driveshaft as well. I'm hoping it's just because the gears are still fairly dry but it's a PITA to shift from 4WD to 2WD. Have to wiggle it and make the car roll slightly. Before the rebuild it was smooth as butter. Except with 4-LO. Always had issues with that fully engaging.

As far as I know, my Jeep has a 2" lift. The PO said it was a 2" lift he put on it.
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Old Sep 26, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #25  
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From: Belton S.C.
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Per Jeep instructions the jeep should be moving when being shifted in and out of 4wd
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Old Sep 27, 2013 | 03:15 AM
  #26  
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From: San Diego, CA
Year: 1995
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Engine: AMC 4.0
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After driving it for a while, it easily shifts in and out of four wheel. Probably just fluid getting where it needs to. Thanks!
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