1996 Jeep Cherokee non-modifed.
Here we go... driving down the highway jeep running smooth no issues..suddenly engine dies/won't start.Tow it to a repair shop. No spark/shaft bearing out on distributor/distributor shorting out/new distributor. New distributor is in and engine starts but now misfires when running.Start throwing money... installed new coil/new plugs (champions)/new cap/new spark plug wires/and finally a new crank sensor and still has the same misfire.Ugh! Now for more weirdness...if the driver's side door is open (dome light on)the engine starts and runs but as soon as you close the door the engines dies.If I close the door turn the dome light on and try to start the engine...no go. This jeep was running perfectly fine until it died a week ago and now all this weirdness. Help!!

 

Did you just get this Jeep?

 

Does the dome lamp / door switch behavior remain the same even if you try the test with the headlight switch in a different position (on vs. off)?

Do you have any bulbs in the interior that are not working? (dome, cargo, glove box, etc).

When the engine dies do you also lose power at the cigarette lighter socket?

 

We have had the jeep for a little over a year and it has run just fine.I tried the dome lamp/door switch with the headlight switch in different positions (thanks for the idea jordan 96xj) but same thing happens--engine dies.
I did have epiphany while trying the headlight thing. I was thinking how in the world would the door switch and ignition be tied together? I remembered that the key buzzer (for leaving the key in the ignition) goes off when the driver's side door is opened. I wonder if there is some kind of short in the ignition switch? I'm considering diving in to the ignition switch and seeing if there are any loose wires or shorts. This vehicle does have an airbag. Am I safe just disconnecting the battery when trying this next adventure?

 

Have you scanned for any stored CEL codes? Engine misfires generally throw a CEL code but not always. Worth a try and could be a big clue there.

Does this happen with all doors?
If its only one door closing causing this and,
if you haven't tried this already, as a trouble shooting aid might want to open the door, start the engine then gently push in the door switch with your finger and see what happens.
That should indicate if its an electrical problem tied to the door switch or if slamming the door shut causes a loose connection somewhere to give out maybe in a connector, ground connection, frayed wire insulation shorting to ground, etc.

It sounds like whatever is going on, its corrupting the PCM bus.

 

I did get 2 codes:
PO340 = camshaft sensor? I'm guessing it means the pick up coil in the distributor? It is new distributor (complete). Once the new dist. was installed it did start right up but with the misfire. Is there a chance that pick up coil in the new dist. is bad? Is there a way of checking that with an ammeter?

The second code was PO138 = O2 sensor. That code has been thrown since we got the vehicle. I'll reset it and it will be fine for a couple of weeks and then come back on. I just now cleared all the codes and ran the engine for awhile and the CEL has not come back on.

I did gently push in the door switch with my finger while the engine was running and it acted just like a kill switch = engine died immediately.(Cig lighter still had power)

As far as I can see all interior light appear to be working just fine.

 

Important!!
Do all the door closings exhibit the engine kill issue or just one door?
Does your Jeep have the remote entry/lock feature?
Did the shop replace the distributor with a new or used one?

Both of those codes can cause the misfiring especially if its a wiring issue.
There's a chance they could be related since all this happened all of a sudden at one time.
Check the wiring closely, connectors (for corrosion) around the O2 sensor and the distributor and else where. Might also want to clean all grounds under the dash and in the engine compartment.
Make sure your battery posts and clamps are clean and in good shape.

That O2 sensor CEL code could of been there for a long time before all this happened. If the O2 sensor is bad the PCM will degrade engine performance considerably.

Never had a camshaft sensor issue so i'd be guessing.
Do a search here on how to test, troubleshoot and adjust it for your year XJ. Or maybe someone else here will comment.

My gut feeling is there's something going on with the distributor, its wiring or camshaft timing since all this happened after the distributor swap.
You mentioned the distributor was 'shorting out'. Can you elaborate on that?
If all else fails, might want to take it back to the shop that replaced it and tell them it still don't work right.
Did that shop use a Mopar cam sensor?

 

Do all the door closings exhibit the engine kill issue or just one door?--only the driver's side door
Does your Jeep have the remote entry/lock feature?-apparently it did have an "Access" remote entry feature. I found it under the dash. There were only 5 wires of the entire thing hooked up..the rest of the wires were still in the original wrapping.I carefully removed the whole thing. No remote start box that I could see, just key entry.( We did not get any kind of key fob entry device with the car). Again we have had this car for a year with no issues
Did the shop replace the distributor with a new or used one? They purchased one from Autozone
Did that shop use a Mopar cam sensor? no one from Autozone

I talked with the mechanic again this morning. He said that when he first put the distributor in the jeep it ran great. He took it out for a test ride around the block (driver's door closed) and it was running fine but then the engine started missing/he drove it back to the shop. He got out with the engine running/shut the door/the engine died. I asked him about the PO340 code showing back up and he said that Autozone sent a second pickup coil to try and the jeep did the same thing = engine missing/ door shut engine dies.

 

Does your Jeep have an alarm system?

Remote engine start?
You said you couldn't find one but check the engine bay firewall especially the grommets near the steering wheel shaft/brake fluid reservoir to see if any non-stock wires are going into it from the cabin or any other suspicious non-stock wiring inside the engine bay or cabin under the dash.
Also check the (+) battery post for any non-stock add-on wiring.

If its only the driver's side door killing the engine, the first thing i'd try is to remove the driver's side kick panel, locate the door switch wires and disconnect them being careful the disconnected wires don't short together or to ground, then see what happens. Disconnect the (-) battery wire first since there are unknowns going on.

Confused regarding the remote entry thing.
Is that an aftermarket remote entry device you found under the dash?
Sounds like it is from what you describe.
If you're sure its not a remote start or an aftermarket alarm box then the extra unused wires could be meant for the other 3 doors (or pass. door if your Jeep is a 2-door).
Might explain why only the driver's side door kills the engine.

There's a chance that box you disconnected is an after market alarm system which means its a sure bet its connected to the door switches.
Are there any labels on that box suggesting what it is?
Can you trace out where the connected wires from that box went/go to?

Just a FYI.
Don't know about your '96 but with the latest years the stock remote entry printed circuit board is located inside the dome light assembly and its connected to the PCM bus.
They are known to go bad corrupting the PCM bus.

So the shop mechanic refused to trouble shoot the misfire problem any further?
Did the new distributor include a new reluctor wheel?
Might want to ask him to replace the AZ sensor with a MOPAR sensor and make sure the whole thing is adjusted correctly.

Don't mean a thing. I've had my XJ going on 18 years and things break out of the blue all the time.

Sounds like the Previous Owner left you with a mess.

 

"My gut feeling is there's something going on with the distributor, its wiring or camshaft timing since all this happened after the distributor swap"

Well "Moparado" trust your gut!! After you mentioned that statement I couldn't shake that same thought. I ran a resistance test on the pick up coil in the distributor and it would give no reading/ then a reading/then no reading. I took a gamble and bought another whole new distributor from Autozone and put it in and.... the jeep runs great! No shut-the-door-kills-the engine syndrome. How weird is that? I'm thinking that there still maybe some electrical issues in this thing but everything seems to be working fine.

I really appreciate all the insight and help from this forum. It got me up and running. Many thanks!!

 

Hey thats great man!
Only thing i can think of with the 1st replacement distributor the sensor was bad corrupting the bus, reluctor wheel was defective or a wire shorting to ground corrupting the PCM bus.

How that affected the door closing issue, no clue at this point.
A PCM corrupted bus can do strange things.
If that issue pops up again, give us a holler.

I'd now clear the CEL codes and see if that O2 sensor or any other CEL codes pop up again.
If the O2 CEL pops up again i'd inspect the wires and connectors associated with it and if ok, change the O2 sensor.

By the way, thanks for the follow up.