::CF Moderator::
cruiser54
::CF Moderator::
close
- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationPrescott, Az
- Posts:43,971
- Year1990
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.0
-
Likes:1,979
-
Liked:1,578 Times in 1,279 Posts
Quote:
That is correct. And if the cap is bad, it will run hot. Ditch whatever cap is on there and go buy a 703-1396 cap from Napa before farting around much more.Originally Posted by Radi
Is your aux fan operating? Should run with the AC on that year, IIRC.
alright some people must have missed a few things.
Ive changed the thermostat, the hoses are new, belts new,rad cap new, water pump this year, fan kicks ***,coolant flush, no leaks whatsoever.
I bled some more air out of the system and will see how it goes this weekend.
COuld very well be the rad and thats fine but some people assume Ive got the funds this very moment to go buy everything new right now.
Thank you for those of you who didnt try to bust my *****. My hands have been plenty dirty and Ive been slaving on this jeep to make it nice. Im very proud of it and hope I am not here with too many people full of pride just waiting to steam off.
Thanks all for your time. Lots of it has helped.
Ive changed the thermostat, the hoses are new, belts new,rad cap new, water pump this year, fan kicks ***,coolant flush, no leaks whatsoever.
I bled some more air out of the system and will see how it goes this weekend.
COuld very well be the rad and thats fine but some people assume Ive got the funds this very moment to go buy everything new right now.
Thank you for those of you who didnt try to bust my *****. My hands have been plenty dirty and Ive been slaving on this jeep to make it nice. Im very proud of it and hope I am not here with too many people full of pride just waiting to steam off.
Thanks all for your time. Lots of it has helped.
[QUOTE=1996sportXJ;1849892]Well sounds like it's time to do the maintenance everyone is suggesting.......
Was it supposed to magically cure itself overnight?[/QUOT
not magically, because I worked on it though I was hoping so, but thanks.
Was it supposed to magically cure itself overnight?[/QUOT
not magically, because I worked on it though I was hoping so, but thanks.
Quote:
got a new cap yesterday.Originally Posted by cruiser54
That is correct. And if the cap is bad, it will run hot. Ditch whatever cap is on there and go buy a 703-1396 cap from Napa before farting around much more.
Quote:
all hase been done but the rad which I will have to wait for.Originally Posted by digger21
Probably should stop asking questions and get your hands dirty. As already mentioned, quit guessing and start putting new cooling system parts on. Upper and lower hoses, t-stat, water pump, fan clutch and if need be, a new radiator. You can do the hoses, stat(which you've done), and water pump for less than $100. I'd say if that doesn't help, pop on a new rad. Fairly inexpensive and one of the most important systems in our jeeps. A good cooling system will get you to 200k plus!
Quote:
1. Bad coolant tank cap was not sealing
2. Air was in system
Replaced cap and burped/purged the air from the system. Now the XJ runs cooler than I would like at 190F. In winter at highway speeds it is much lower than 190F so I have little heat coming from the heater.
Be advised the first cap I bought from NAPA was defective, it didn't seal properly. This caused much confusion diagnosing this problem.
So are you loosing coolant? If your loosing coolant where is it going?
I would get a good light and eyeball for leaks before replacing parts.
I would be curious as to exactly why it's overheating.
That's just me, I guess.
thank you, I was wondering the overflow tank has the cap, but to the front top of the container right under the cap its got a down tube that is open for if it overfills I guess, is that normal, air goes right in, seems odd to me.Originally Posted by tgordon
This caught my attention from the original post "water pump was changed". Also the flushes to the system. I had an overheating issue when I first acquired my XJ a couple years ago. Cause of my prob was isolated to two problems:1. Bad coolant tank cap was not sealing
2. Air was in system
Replaced cap and burped/purged the air from the system. Now the XJ runs cooler than I would like at 190F. In winter at highway speeds it is much lower than 190F so I have little heat coming from the heater.
Be advised the first cap I bought from NAPA was defective, it didn't seal properly. This caused much confusion diagnosing this problem.
So are you loosing coolant? If your loosing coolant where is it going?
I would get a good light and eyeball for leaks before replacing parts.
I would be curious as to exactly why it's overheating.
That's just me, I guess.
CF Veteran
Quote:
tgordon has a closed cooling system, your '98 is a open system....2 different animals. The bottle (non-pressurized) on your '98 has a vented cap and the bottle fills and empties internally from the bottom and it's a MUST that u have a properly functioning rad cap as it is a 2 way valve. The bottle MUST always have some coolant in it....otherwise, air is drawn into the radiator when the motor cools and that's not good.Originally Posted by 762x39
thank you, I was wondering the overflow tank has the cap, but to the front top of the container right under the cap its got a down tube that is open for if it overfills I guess, is that normal, air goes right in, seems odd to me.
Quote:
yeah thats working properly then, thanks bud.Originally Posted by djb383
tgordon has a closed cooling system, your '98 is a open system....2 different animals. The bottle on your '98 has a vented cap and the bottle fills and empties internally from the bottom and it's a MUST that u have a properly functioning rad cap as it is a 2 way valve. The bottle MUST always have some coolant in it....otherwise, air is drawn into the radiator when the motor cools.
CF Veteran
I know money is tight but, replace that rad and whatever other cooling system components that haven't been replaced, asap. Over heating can lead to major engine failure and thousands of bucks out of pocket vs +/-$250 for a complete cooling system including a new rad.
CF Veteran
Quote:
--x2, next makeover for me, the diffs-n-such,will haff to wait!! by the way what year-n-model Kaw is that on yer avatar?Originally Posted by djb383
I know money is tight but, replace that rad and whatever other cooling system components that haven't been replaced, asap. Over heating can lead to major engine failure and thousands of bucks out of pocket vs +/-$250 for a complete cooling system including a new rad.
CF Veteran
You need to eat that ~$100 and replace the rad and cure the overheating issue. Like djb said, you could do damage that would cost you more in the $1,000 range if it isn't taken care of. Engines don't like that kind of heat
Quote:
I know guys, I gotta pay the house payment first and then a couple other bills, right now it is not running up more than 220 and it may have been all the air I failed to get out of the line. Durring the weekend if it goes over 220 I will just shut it down until I can do the rad. As far as my post earlier, sorry if I came accros as pissed but Im a hard working 37 year old guy runnin this life just God and I and only got so much money and time. I just dont like being talked down to if Im just asking questions and making conversation, nobody has to join in if they dont want. Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
You need to eat that ~$100 and replace the rad and cure the overheating issue. Like djb said, you could do damage that would cost you more in the $1,000 range if it isn't taken care of. Engines don't like that kind of heat
Thanks again for all the advice guys.
Quote:
if I ate the 100 bucks how will I be able to use it for a rad?Originally Posted by 1996sportXJ
You need to eat that ~$100 and replace the rad and cure the overheating issue. Like djb said, you could do damage that would cost you more in the $1,000 range if it isn't taken care of. Engines don't like that kind of heat

CF Veteran
Quote:
Just to be clear, the electric (aux) fan IS coming on? I guess it comes at around 217*, and on defrost and when the AC is on. Originally Posted by 762x39
fan kicks ***,.
Yea, your cap has a pressure relief that lets coolant by into the overflow reservoir, then the cap also has a one way valve in it, so when the system cools it can then draw the coolant back in. The reservoir cap just keeps crap from getting in there.
An easy and quick head gasket check, ...If you power-brake it with the cap off, it will bubble, (or geyser) out the cap if it's really bad. I just mention that because those 2000* plus gasses would make it heat up right away and hiss out the cap...Like a said, just something easy to check.
Best luck to you...I hate over heating!
Quote:
Yea, your cap has a pressure relief that lets coolant by into the overflow reservoir, then the cap also has a one way valve in it, so when the system cools it can then draw the coolant back in. The reservoir cap just keeps crap from getting in there.
An easy and quick head gasket check, ...If you power-brake it with the cap off, it will bubble, (or geyser) out the cap if it's really bad. I just mention that because those 2000* plus gasses would make it heat up right away and hiss out the cap...Like a said, just something easy to check.
Best luck to you...I hate over heating!
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Just to be clear, the electric (aux) fan IS coming on? I guess it comes at around 217*, and on defrost and when the AC is on. Yea, your cap has a pressure relief that lets coolant by into the overflow reservoir, then the cap also has a one way valve in it, so when the system cools it can then draw the coolant back in. The reservoir cap just keeps crap from getting in there.
An easy and quick head gasket check, ...If you power-brake it with the cap off, it will bubble, (or geyser) out the cap if it's really bad. I just mention that because those 2000* plus gasses would make it heat up right away and hiss out the cap...Like a said, just something easy to check.
Best luck to you...I hate over heating!
Well check this out then, oh and by the way its a 98, anyways, yesterday I would trying to get the rest of the air out of the line, hood up, cap off, in park duh, hit the throttle and it would suck the coolant down, let off and it would slowly come back up, sometimes air bubbles, and repeat.
Oh and yeah the electric fan kicks on and strong too, just about any time I turn the air on, sometimes if not too but only if its real hot, I think every time the air comes on though the fan does too.