210-230 ish temps
If you want to do a class act job, replace Thermostat (to OEM Specs), flush and fill radiator, and put in a new waterpump. I have a 92' and my water pump went out a while ago and it was catastrauphic! the water pumps are about $40, thermos-$3, and coolant-$15
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Advance auto gave me a 13lb radiator cap for my rig. 16lb in it now. Am i good or do i need another 16lb?
Last edited by Disoriented Hillbilly; Mar 26, 2011 at 06:02 PM.
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by djb383
How'd it stop? LOL
.
Last edited by Disoriented Hillbilly; Mar 26, 2011 at 09:08 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by nme159
Advance auto gave me a 13lb radiator cap for my rig. 16lb in it now. Am i good or do i need another 16lb?
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
I'd think u would be ok with a 13lb.....boiling point is probably lowered less than 10 degrees F (50/50 mix). I've run a 7lb cap, less pressure, less chance of a leak but not advised. Remember, the XJ rad is really dinky, the entire cooling system must be in tip top shape, especially for the upcoming summer months.
Last edited by djb383; Mar 26, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
if your going to flush it out you might as well put a new t stat in it theyre like 10 bucks, also if it gets hot at speed and cools down when you stop like mine was doing it might be your fan clutch on the mechanical fan.
check the relay to make sure your e fan is coming on also. if its a renix set up then the t stat will be near the air box on the drivers side fender under the hood.
check the relay to make sure your e fan is coming on also. if its a renix set up then the t stat will be near the air box on the drivers side fender under the hood.
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
With a properly functioning cooling system, it's usually the other way around. At speed there's plenty of air moving thru the rad and fan(s) aren't needed......when moving slow is when u need the fan(s).
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From: Hesperia
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0

i asked that because thats what happned to me with a new radiator.
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
It may be spinning slower but that's when the clutch is engaged and really grabbing air......at higher speed, it's free-wheeling, grabbing very little air because lots of air moves thru the rad at speed. Again, that's the way a properly functioning cooling system USUALLY performs, YRMV.
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From: chillicothe, OH
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sandad, did flush and tstat and rad cap. But originally, rig was getting hot at higher speeds then seeming to cool down at idle. O.o
So should i check out the fans? Mech fan is the one on engine run by belts and e fan is the one mounted to rad and comes on with tstat right???? Just makin sure what u r referring to as i am ignorant to some of his still!!!
So should i check out the fans? Mech fan is the one on engine run by belts and e fan is the one mounted to rad and comes on with tstat right???? Just makin sure what u r referring to as i am ignorant to some of his still!!!



